Olympia: an Overlooked Travel Treasure

Sometimes we are slow to discover the travel treasures we have within a couple hours' drive from home.  Such was the case with Washington's capital city, Olympia.

Olympia, State Capitol in Background

It was a friend's wedding reception that drew us to this city on the banks of Budd Bay at the southern end of Puget Sound. And it was the clear-headed approach of 'don't drink and drive' that kept us there for an overnight stay.  As a result  we've added another travel treasure to our list.

Olympia, a city of 40,000+, swells when our Legislature is in session but shrinks to a delightful small-town size after the sine die gavel cracks.  It was so small town, in fact, that our search for a place near our motel to have a glass of wine at 9:30 p.m. on a Saturday night was futile. Olympia goes to bed early.

Our quick trip didn't give us enough time to explore all that Olympia has to offer:  there are guided tours of the Capital Campus, and other guided tours of the town and campus offered by Oly WAlks; there's the Olympic Flight Museum, the State Capital Museum and the Hands-on Children's Museum.

Old State Capitol Building

We did have time to take a late afternoon stroll through the downtown and sip coffee at Batdorf and Bronson, 516 Capital Way, coffee purveyors since 1986.  We paused to admire the Old State Capitol, 600 Washington St.  This stately 1892 building - now home to the State Superintendent of Public Instruction's offices - was our state capitol from 1903 - 1927 while our current state capitol was being built.

Washington State Capitol and campus

En route to the reception we made a stop at The Oyster House, 320 4th Ave. W., the oldest - they say -seafood restaurant in the State of Washington. It's on the shores of Puget Sound next to Percival Landing with public docking available.  Our breakfast at Cicada Restaurant, 700 4th Ave. E., is a reason unto itself for returning to Olympia. 

One of the many Farmer's Market flower vendors

Olympia's Farmers Market, 700 N. Capitol Way, has got to be one of the best in the Pacific Northwest, to our way of thinking.  Following a stop there on Sunday morning, we were back in Kirkland less than an hour and a half later.





Cheap Meals + Deals = Vegas Wins

Treasure Island on the Vegas Strip

We generally avoid Las Vegas on weekends or holidays because of the high room rates.

But with tourism still taking a hit there, we got a room at the recently-renovated  Treasure Island  (TI) for under $100 a night. (Wynn Resort, across the street was more than $300 a night).

Money-saving Deals:
We used 2-for-1 brewskie/drink coupons at their tropically-themed Kahunaville Bar and Restaurant., The parade of fellow guests to the bar provided the free entertainment.

Opting out of TI's resort fee ($20 a day for Internet access and gym admittance) and passing on in-room Internet at $14.99 for 24-hours ($7.99 for two continuous hours); we walked across the pedestrian bridge to Starbucks for coffee and  free Internet. 

(Note: the Starbucks in the TI doesn't accept coffee cards and doesn't have Internet access.  Coffee Presse, just inside the Palazzo shops, also offers free wi-fi.)

While surfing the Net at Starbucks, (using our own Netbook) we found Monday and Tuesday night rates had dropped to 'reasonable' at The Palazzo (across the street) so we booked ourselves there for $139 a night using Expedia. Upon check in we received a sheet of discount coupons that included 2-for-1 drinks, discounts at several restaurants and  $25 in free slot machine play at their casino for each of us. Using the coupons: we sipped Prosecco at the Double Helix bar, dined at Dos Caminos and played the penny slot machines - all of which, we may not have done without the coupons. Another win for them and for us.

The Palazzo

We got the best airfare on Alaska Air by flying Friday and Wed. Check the airline's rate calendar and if you can, adjust your travel to the best fare travel days.

Ah, the bottled water as mentioned before: street vendors, sell  for a buck a bottle - same size inside can cost from $2.49 - $3.19.

Free Shows:
While entertainers headline and productions dazzle on many of the casino/hotel stages, we have discovered a number of free shows are incredibly entertaining as well.

Treasure Island has a great free pirate show on the street side of the resort several times each evening. Check the posted show times and then come early to get a good spot for sidewalk viewing. (We used another 2-for-1 coupon and sipped a glass of wine, watching the show from the TI's balcony bar).

We watched the Piazza mime finish his show and then were serenaded by costumed strolling minstrels who entertained with Italian tunes while we made the most of Happy Hour drinks and dining at the bar in Canaletto Restorante Veneto along the Grand Canal in the Venetian (connecting the Venetian to the Palazzo).

Their Happy Hour offers a good selection of cheap eats and drinks for $7 each before 6 p.m. We sipped our wine, ate thin crust pizza and a plate of calamari and enjoyed the free entertainment on our last night in town.

Pirate ship 'burns' during TI free show

Las Vegas 'Football Fest'

Labor Day Weekend.
We wanted sun.
We wanted football.
We went to Vegas.
We got both. 

The sun.

Temperatures were hovering in the low 100's when we arrived Friday afternoon and continued so through Sunday. It was so hot that we paced our sightseeing to match those wily vendors who fill wheeled suitcases or ice chests with ice-cold bottled water, then set up shop at regular intervals along The Strip selling them for a buck a bottle. . .they make money and we save money (the same bottle sells for $3.59 at the airport).

Palazzo Pool

By Labor Day the temperature dropped to the high 90's making it possible to toast ourselves at poolside and not suffer heat stroke. 

We watched football!  
Labor Day weekend marked the kickoff of the college football season.  While we love going to away games, we learned in January (when we 'went' to several Bowl Games) in Las Vegas that this town is a one-stop shop for watching many games. Even better, there's no charge for watching them in one of the many 'Sports Book's as they call the special areas dedicated to sports viewing (and betting, for those so inclined) found in larger casinos.

We spent time Saturday morning scouting out the best 'book' for our viewing needs:  comfy chairs and plenty of screens. The one we selected was at the Venetian where not only was our team, the UW Huskies, on Big screen television; but  LSU's game was on a BIGGER screen, and smaller screens gave us front-row seats to games played by San Jose State, Washington State's Coug's and four other teams. So many games, so much fun. 

The football fest continued on Labor Day when BSC contenders' the  Boise State Broncos took on Virginia Tech. We returned to the cushy chairs at the Venetian to watch the game on  the really BIG screen and 11 other screens of various sizes.  The nail-biter had fans of both teams cheering loudly as the lead bouncing back and forth. 

The Broncos completed a game winning touchdown in the final moments that put them three points ahead.

The point spread (that's the number that helps you determine who to bet on if you are in to that sport) during the weekend had varied between -2.50 and -1.50 meaning the Broncos had to win by those 3 points for those who had bet on them to win money.  It was an emotion-filled ending in that sports book - high fives and shouting and clapping was as good as being in the stadium.

We kicked off the football season and darkened our suntan a bit - time to head home.  

  Wisconsin fans were in town for UNLV game

Cruising Countdown and Other Contemplations

There's just something about cruising . . .for us, the excitement begins long before the blast of the ship's horn signals our departure.

We ponder where our cabin will be, what we will do at each new port of call, how few clothes we can pack and still be socially acceptible and about new friends we will make.  This trip even promises a chance to reconnect with our Florida friends whom we met on an earlier cruise - on this same ship, the Westerdam,as a matter of fact. 

Our countdown to cruising has begun. . .

And, no, we still don't know what we are doing or where we are going during our two after-cruise weeks. Although, author Seth Stevenson has unleashed a whole new set of travel bugs upon us in his book,"Grounded - A Down to Earth Journey Around the World" (Riverhead Books Publisher, 2010) in which he writes about the trip he and his girlfriend made circumnavigating the globe without ever setting foot on an airplane.  They traveled by freighter, container ship, bus, bike, train and car on the journey that took six months to complete.

Stevenson is the writer and his girlfriend an attorney.   Hmmm. . . with a gender flip, it's the same mix as in this household. (They are probably a couple decades younger than we are, but travel bugs don't discriminate by age).

"We could do that!" we say, with a tinge of speculation.

"We should do a trip like that before we get too old to do it," our reasoning continues.

Maybe we could  test out their travel style in our two yet-to-be-determined weeks:

One option:  If we caught a ferry from Piraeus to Italy (Ancona, Bari, or Venice) after our cruise ship returned from the Black Sea, we could take a train to Rome and depart there on a repositioning cruise that would take us to Fort Lauderdale. . .it's still a bit on the pricey side for our 'find-a-deal' budget. 

Or we could:  take a ferry from Civittavechia (the port city for Rome) and head to Spain. There's another repositioning cruise that leaves from Barcelona - good price, interesting routing. . .hmmmm.

Either option would give us more time on the sea ~

The more practical (probably the more economical) version:  Simply fly (sorry, Seth - we will have to be 'grounded' some other time) to Barcelona from Athens. Cheaper and quicker but doesn't kindle the 'romance of travel'.  From a practical standpoint we'd have more time for exploring Greece or Spain.

Or we could remain on course:  pondering where we want to go for a couple weeks after the Black Sea cruise. . .maybe just hop the first ferry out after we leave the ship. . .

Contemplation. . . this really is the fun part. . .no joke!

Waiting for Godot. . .er,. . .Air Miles

Waiting for Godot, the Samuel Beckett play in which two characters wait for "Godot" ranks high on the 'theatre of the absurd' list.

            BA Flight #48 - we were on it. . ..really!

I am writing a travel sequel,  Waiting for Air Mile Credits.  
Alaska Air is the producer and British Air has a starring role and we -- two Alaska Air loyalty program members --are but supporting cast members. 

The storyline:  We, the supporting cast, traveled to London on April 28th on British Airlines, one of Alaska Air's partners.  We paid for our tickets so qualified for the partner portion of the actual miles flown, about 1,200 miles per person.  Alaska's web site tells a loyalty member that it may take 60 days to recieve miles in their account from a partner. . .

Our wait began.
When no credits appeared on our accounts by the end of June, I faxed copies of the boarding passes to Alaska requesting the credit.

And we waited. 
After a few more weeks passed, I  updated the fax request and faxed it again..

And we waited.
Finally, I reasoned that I had faxed to the wrong number.
Of course! That had to be the answer. . . and I had a comedy in the making.
So in early August I called Alaska seeking the correct fax number.
But wait! Turns out I had been using the correct number.

A pause. . .a mystery plot was developing:
Seems a record of our flight was posted to our Alaska accounts July 3rd; BUT we won't  get credit for the miles until British Air verifies our request. 
(Can't imagine anyone at British Air remembering us. . .but I had faxed copies of our boarding passes. . . .maybe they've been sent  to British Air for verification - I couldn't bring myself to ask. )

May take another three to four weeks to appear, I was told.
This weekend marked four months since our flight.
No mileage credit has appeared on our accounts.
And still we wait.

A gastronomic gallop through Portland

Food. 
That's the real reason I want to return to Oregon's "City of Roses".

                 Lobby and courtyard Hotel Modera

Yes, its parks and gardens were great, shopping plentiful, and our Hotel Modera was heavenly, (a most memorable nightcap was sipped along side one of its three large fire pits in the courtyard) but it is the promise of continued culinary adventures that seem to be the strongest draw. 

The Female Foursome did our best to sample as much as possible during our short stay with two notable highlights being:
 * Higgins Restaurant and Bar, 1239 SW Broadway, a place that has grown so popular since its 1994 opening that I was glad the Portlander among us had made reservations at this French bistro-style restaurant housed in an atmospheric historic building complete with pressed tin ceilings.  I had one of Chef/owner Greg Higgins' pasta creations in a fresh basil pesto with hazelnuts. Hazelnuts, also known as filberts, are grown in Oregon and this rich, satisfying dish did credit to the crop and the chef's creativity.

* Mother's Bistro and Bar, 212 SW Stark, was our breakfast destination where the menu items featured Oregon's fresh blueberries and blackberries on or in muffins, pancakes and French toast. We walked from our hotel to justify eating another meal so soon after dinner at Higgins - an easy walk and great sightseeing.

         Morning set up at Food Carts

Our gastronomic gallop through the heart of the city took us to two of Portland's innovative Food Cart blocks.  I am talking city blocks filled with gourmet food offerings served from windows of trucks, vans and trailers - think taco truck, ice cream man, Oahu's Northshore shrimp trucks and you  get the idea.  Small sidewalk bistro tables and picnic tables make up the out-door dining areas.

Ethnic specialties, old-fashioned locally made Brats, ice cream - its all there somewhere.  High quality food for low prices and each eatery a popular stop. One place that had as many published food reviews on display as ayou might find in a restaurant; but then many of these places are the launching pads for chefs who aren't quite ready to make the plunge into traditional restaurant settings, we were told.

               And then open for business

Clever names. Inventive food.  We stopped at The Dump Truck, open Monday - Friday 11 a.m. - 4 p.m., to try its gourmet steamed dumplings.  Dumplings, dump truck. . .get it? Ever thought of a bacon cheeseburger dumpling or one filled with Portobello mushrooms? They serve them here, where a hearty sampler plate can be had for $5.

Yes, I will go back but next time I'll slow the gastronomic gallop and simply forage through the food cart blocks. . .

Portland "City of Roses"

Decades ago Portland, Oregon dubbed itself the "City of Roses" and today it still lives up to its name. Rose beds fill parks and rose bud images are found everywhere including imprints on water main covers in the middle of city streets. 

                Rose bed in South Park Blocks

Last week's visit as part of the Female Foursome  was just a taste of all this city at the confluence of the Columbia and Willamette (Wil-lam-ette) rivers, a few hours south of Seattle has to offer. 

The Foursome sampled a lot of the town during our time together and recommend:
  * strolling  the length of the 25-block boulevard between Park and 9th, an oasis of trees, gardens and statues that got is start back in 1852 and today is referred to as South Park Blocks.
  * visiting Powell's Bookstore, an independently owned business that covers a city block and is filled with more than a million new, used, and out-of-print books; a place so inviting that we had to go back twice during our short visit and still didn't have enough time to roam the entire maze of color-coded rooms.

             Fountain at Jamison Square

  * visiting the one-time warehouse district, now the urban renewal award-winning Pearl District , a place that also drew us back a second time to continue our tour of  its restaurants, shops, bars and galleries. 
   * enjoying the neighborhood parks - during our visit they were filled with kids making the most of the summer sun, playing in the fountains and pools.
   *  sampling some of Portland's micro-brews.

    Enjoying Portland's Deschutes Brewery

Portland's MAX light rail train and Streetcar - with their free ride zone in the heart of the downtown  -- made explorations a snap.  We'd walk until we couldn't go another step and then simply hop a train for another couple of blocks. 

I'd love to revisit everything I've mentioned, but if you want to know what  the real reason is for me wanting to go back, check the next post. . .

Ridin' Washington's Rails

We did it! After talking for months about this multi-generational 'girls trip' to Portland, Oregon, a trio of female travelers set out last week to visit a fourth who lives in the "City of Roses".

           King Street Station, Seattle

As many of my trips do, we began aboard Metro's 255 bus that picked us up across the street from my Kirkland home and dropped us an easy walk from Seattle's King Street Station; home to both Amtrak and SoundTansit trains. Restoration work continues at the stately old station that opened in 1906 with a clock tower patterned after Venice's Campanile di San Marco. When finished, it will be one of Seattle's showplaces - it is already looking good.

On the southbound journey we rode Amtrak's Coast Starlight which carries passengers as far as Los Angeles' Union Station.  My return trip the following day was on Amtrak's Cascades that runs between Eugene and Vancouver, B.C.

My traveling companions (pictured on the left) and I each had round-trip coach class tickets ($81.90 per person with a AAA-Club of Washington discount) that got us comfortable seats on the upper level of the double-decker train car. We had large windows, and ample leg room with both leg and feet rests. The seats would have been perfect but for the two undisciplined little boys who sat with their mom behind us. Remember the movie, "Throw Mama from the Train"? 
It comes to mind. . .

                 Trail & Rail Ranger on board

A highlight of the 3-hour and 45 minute ride was learning about Amtrak's Trail & Rail Program, a partnership with the National Park Service that puts volunteer rangers on board to explain the natural and cultural sites along various U.S. routes.  Two rangers on our train had notebooks full of information that they used when making announcements along the way in the Sightseer Lounge Car, pictured above.  

This Trail & Rail program operates on various Amtrak routes from spring until fall.  For instance, the rangers told us  volunteer rangers can also be found on Amtrak's Empire Builder between Shelby, Montana and Seattle.

The Portland adventures of the Female Foursome  -- two over-50-somethings and the two under-40-somethings -- continue in the next post.. . .