Monday, March 16, 2020

Greece - A Dozen Days Later

The village on a Sunday afternoon this time of year is one of my favorite places on earth. The sun warms the stone buildings as we stroll our main -- and only -- street that stretches from one end of town to the other. A few fishing boats bob and sway in the harbor.  It is a great time to sip a cappuccino at a harborside cafĂ© and contemplate nothing more serious than what one might eat for dinner.

Sunday afternoon Agios Nikolaos - streets are empty

Well, that is the way it was.  In fact, only a few days ago. Back before corona virus made itself an unwanted visitor in Greece as it is doing in so many places around the earth right now.

In last week's post, I wrote that back when I started writing it - now a dozen days ago - we had 9 identified cases in this Mediterranean country whose population numbered 10.9 million in 2017. Before I got that piece published, the cases jumped to 45.

In those dozen days many things about life in Greece have changed. First and foremost is the COVID-19 numbers: 228 cases, (38 identified on this past Saturday alone) and sadly, 4 fatalities.

Going into Lock Down

Gregg's Plateia - usually the village hub of activity 

Back a dozen days ago, the cancelled Carnivale celebrations were just the start of actions being implemented to curb the spread of this killer. Like dominos toppling into each other the prevention steps and related closures picked up momentum last Friday.

Not the time to visit Agios Nikolaos


The Greek government's response team is taking the threat seriously. And while what I tell you about life here right now may sound somewhat draconian, let me assure you it is comforting to know that tough decisions are being made, being implemented expeditiously and the citizens are functioning within our new guidelines. Not questioning. Not whining. Life is continuing. . .just differently and more cautiously.

An editorial praising the government's swift actions in Ekathimerini, our  English-language Greek paper noted that 'political rivalries have been put aside' and 'the main opposition party is on the same page.' It concluded: 'Energy cannot be wasted in political fighting when lives are at stake.'

How is that for a refreshing approach to politics in a time of pandemic?

Life in a Time of Coronavirus

Restaurants are closed - the village feels and looks empty

Greek schools closed for three weeks shortly after the Carnivale celebrations. Then came the cancellation of events and closure of  archaeological sites and museums and other attractions. Last weekend all restaurants, bars, tavernas and cafes were closed for two weeks.  If an establishment has take out beverages or food options you can stop by long enough to pick up the goods - but no more than five people are allowed to be together inside the establishment and they must stand two meters apart.

The police were patrolling the village on Saturday to assure compliance.

Wildflowers are in bloom in The Mani despite the crisis


By Saturday evening the government announced that all seasonal hotels, Airbnb, and other rentals registered with the tax office as 'seasonal' if open now must close by March 23rd. They will remain closed until  April 30th.

Additionally:

 * the border - air, sea and road - between Greece and our neighbors to the north, Albania and North Macedonia is closed.
* flights from Spain are no longer allowed to land in Greece.
* ferries traveling between Greece and Italy are allowed only to transport goods - human passengers are no longer allowed.
* cruise ship and sail boats are not allowed to dock in Greek ports.
* all organized beach and ski resorts are closed.
* retail operations are curtailed and services like hairdressers, nail salons, closed.
Violators face fines of up to 5,000 euros.

There are no restrictions on movement within the country. But who wants to travel?

The few retail operations limit the number of people inside at one time. Grocery stores were ordered to limit the number of customers inside at one time. (Not a problem, I might add, in our village.) People are behaving sensibly here.  We even have lots of toilet paper available although hand sanitizer and wipes are not to be found.

Clerks today are wearing gloves now and some have face masks.  Some stores are displaying large bottles of hand sanitizer and require you to use it before entering. Some are going about business as usual.

Is It Social Distancing or simply a Wellness Retreat?

Stoupa Beach Friday evening

We are now three days into this new Greek world and seem to be surviving quite well. In fact, it took this new behavior to make us realize how our daily life at The Stone House on the Hill, has been a sort of undefined social distancing all along. We go into town for errands or entertainment, usually related to food or drink. We've still got the grocery store and takeout and a bit of social interaction when running errands. Right now we don't even have neighbors in five of the seven houses on the hill as they've not yet returned from winter travels.

Our Stone House on the Hill far left, the village below

You know there are some people who pay enormous amounts of money to experience a wellness retreat - those get-away-from-television-people-phones kind of experiences? Those getaways that now sound a lot like high priced social distancing to me.

I Googled a few of those getaways and found them described as focusing on variations of spirituality, cuisine and art, and health - some within a cultural context. Whoa! That is exactly what we seem to be doing here -- and it is free of charge, every day!

So for those of you out there who are wringing your hands at being told by some governing body that you have to stay a bit closer to home, (and I know you are out there because I read FB!) just think of it as a wellness getaway:

Our new activity: hiking in the Mani


Your mind will be at ease knowing you are staying out of harm's (germ's) way, you have time to read those books you haven't yet gotten to, there's no excuse not to pursue some long-dreamed of hobby or you could dig out the cookbooks and see what culinary talents have been lying dormant within you!

Where ever you are in the world we hope you and your loved one's are safe from COVID-19. Continue to take the recommended prevention steps being recommended by health professionals around the world.

I leave you with a thought from a FB friend: 'Viruses are contagious. But so is panic, fear, hysteria, calm, grace, empathy, love and kindness.  Choose wisely which one you will spread.'

Hope to see you back here next week. In the meantime, how about a comment or email to let us know how you are doing in your part of the world?

Linking this week with:

Mosaic Monday
Through My Lens
Travel Tuesday
Our World Tuesday
My Corner of the World Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday



32 comments:

  1. I have to share the contagious comment. So good.

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    1. I thought so too and such a good reminder! Glad you read the blog to find the quote!!

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  2. Wonderful to read as always!❤️����❤️

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    1. Thanks so much MJ. Hang in there. This, too, shall pass. xxx J.

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  3. Good to read this Jackie, sounds perfect! I will retire at the end of July and then our life will also be a wellness retreat! Edmonds schools are closed as are all in WA for 6 weeks at least. I work in the Tech department where we’re working to accommodate students and staff working remotely, which presents plenty of challenges. I feel like we’ve been given an opportunity to practice and demonstrate flexibility and patience and kindness. Interesting times, that’s for sure!

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    1. Definitely interesting times. This is the place to be in term of fresh air and being able to self-isolate. Plenty of places to get away from it all!

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  4. It sounds like your govt is getting it right. We are not. Lovely photo of the wild flowers by the way....

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    1. Fingers crossed that all governments will start taking it seriously and we can nip this in the bud! Thanks for taking time to comment, Lydia!

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  5. A miracle has happened Jackie. The parties have put aside their differences and are cooperating. That is enough to scare the virus away. Stay safe my friends!

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    1. I certainly hope so! It is nice to have a united political approach to this. I am shocked at the posts on FB questioning the decisions and the anti-decision - suggestions from people in the U.S. Afraid their 'me, me, me' attitude has gotten in the way of doing what is best for society.
      Take care and be safe Mary! xx J.

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  6. I like the idea of thinking of this as a wellness retreat! It's great that politics is not playing a role in dealing with the virus in Greece. As you know, here in the US, it's politics as usual. If this can't bring the two sides together, I guess nothing will. The situation is not being handled well at all. When our president says, "I take no responsibility," well, I'd say, we're screwed. Things are getting shuttered up here - there is now an 8pm curfew in the tri-state area as well as closings of schools, sporting events, restaurants. etc. My son can't return to college. Yet, it seems that there are so many people who refuse to take this seriously. I actually read a thread on FB where people were saying they refused to give up their manicures, and rationalizing why they think it's safe to go. It's crazy! Stay well, Jackie and Joel!

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    1. I am glad you confirmed my take on Americans' response to this. I actually saw a political challenger to the governor of Washington State suggest defying the order - just because he doesn't want to follow the governor's order. Another whole strand took issue with the governor's right to issue the order! And Washington State is the epicenter of the whole thing!! I am seeing my country through a whole set of new lenses. Take care and stay well! xx Jackie

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  7. OMG... your blog wiped out my long comment, I didn't even get a chance to copy which l usually do so l can paste when it blanks. :-(. Recap.. mostly the same here in Spain. Kemkem

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    1. I loved your blog post on your travel in a time of corona virus and appreciate your attempt to leave a comment. We do sound like mirror images of government actions. Take care and stay safe. xxx Jackie

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  8. Well said, Jackie. We live similar lives, although the weather is the contrast. We (the older generation) are to go in isolation when the government tells us in the next few days, but it also tells us not to stockpile. I worry for the elderly who live alone and have no family. Like you, we will do our best to comply and hope that we all stay safe.

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    1. Well, the Greeks - at least in our area - are taking this so very seriously that I am impressed with the both the quick government decisions and the strict adherence to them. We are keeping our distance these days and doing our best to stay isolated. Maybe you saw the meme that said, "That moment when you are worrying about the elderly and realize you are elderly" fits us real well! Love and hugs to you both. Stay well. J and J

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  9. Canada is doing an amazing job. We are in lock down with the same restrictions as you have.

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    1. Hi Jackie, so nice to hear from you and I have been watching the decisive actions taken by your government. Bravo to them as well! Take care and stay well - xx Jackie

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  10. So far my county has zero cases and I hope we can keep it up...sad and scary times.

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    1. Oh Tanya, fingers are crossed that you are able to keep it at zero cases. That is music to ones ears these days! Stay well and keep us all posted on how it is going there. xx Jackie

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  11. In Washington State, all schools are closed, restaurant dining rooms are closed, supermarket shelves are half empty. Eau de Purell is the new favorite scent. In Seattle, the ultra-swank Canlis restaurant is serving burgers and bagels with drive-thru service only. What has the world come to? Stay safe, stay healthy.

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    1. It does seem a 'brave new world' doesn't it? I was still trying to wrap my head around Kirkland being the epicenter for the virus when I read that little Chelan had just discovered its first case there yesterday. Absolutely. Amazing!! Stay on your island and stay well. Hugs to you both ~ J.

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  12. Europe has just shut its borders! But at least we can walk around... Lovely shots.

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    1. We shut Greece's borders just before the EU shut its borders. As you say, we still can walk around and that is a good thing! Take care and stay well!! xx J.

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  13. Our prime minister imposed a "controlled movement order" 2 days ago. It's somewhat like a partial lockdown. Hope this nightmare will end soon.

    Stay safe!

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    1. I know it sounds draconian but it seems that such orders are the only way people are going to give up their behaviors to try and get control of this. I am with you in hoping this ends sooner than some of the predictions about its end.

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  14. Hi there!Ciao a tutti voi!!
    We're Giuliana and Roberto, 65,from Italy, once sailors on our beloved "PADDY BOY", sold in 2018 in Papeete, French Polinesy, after six years of life on board.We're living now in Portugal, at Vila do Carvalho, a little village on the East side of Serra da Estrela, altitude 750mt, 1000 inhabitants.In many ways it's similar to a Greek village( except the sea...)
    Here life is simple, quiet, with no stress at all.Nature around us is gorgeous: a lot of spring water everywhere, little farms (qiunta), sheeps, cows , horses, lovely dogs and cats...A little paradise in which the Covid-19 seems a remote nightmare!
    We're voluntarily self restricted from last week to respect our own safety and the one of our nice neibouroughs too.Portoguese people are more"private" than mediterranean one, that's why we feel this quarantine is not changing our dayly life.Desert roads are usual, no reastaurants up here, some bars, usualy quite empty, now closed.People around us still working in their fields with the mild climate of a colorful Spring.Pink fields of peaches'trees or white explosions of cherrys'trees everywhere.All of us are feeling relief enjoying the beauty of Nature...
    Let's be positive: the World will be better after the Covid-19.
    ANDRĂ€ TUTTO BENE !!
    Baci Baci from Giuliana and Roberto

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    1. How nice to hear from you two again!! So glad you have yourselves a safe village retreat to be in during this unsettled time in the world. It sounds much like our village life here in Greece. Continue to stay safe and well. And do keep in touch ~ I love hearing from you! Hugs from Greece ~

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  15. It is strange the way life has changed, strange and unsettling. I hope you are staying healthy and finding ways to enjoy the time of retreat.
    Thank you for sharing at https://image-in-ing.blogspot.com/2020/03/check-out-wienermobile.html

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    1. Strange and unsettled is a perfect way to describe it -- but maybe it is forcing us all to take some time and appreciate what we have in our 'own backyard'. . .maybe when this is all over, we will find ourselves in a better place. Take care and stay well!

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  16. I am glad to hear you are in a good place. Times are weird, but it's not forever. I am happily isolating in the desert.

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  17. We have been following your travels and if we weren't here, I would want to be doing the same thing you are! Stay safe - keep posting beautiful photos while we wait out this crazy time in the world.

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