Saturday, June 27, 2020

A Night in Nafplio

A Night in Nafplio. . .sounds rather like a movie title, doesn't it?

The land of castles and kings - Nafplio

You know. . . one of those summer escapade films starring the likes of Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn. Maybe I watched too many of those movies in my youth, but sometimes even the briefest of getaways in Greece, where we live as expats, feels as exhilarating as the storylines of those old time travel/romance films.


Nafplio streets are quiet following the spring CV lockdown
And I can tell you, it is even more exhilarating when it follows weeks of coronavirus prevention lockdown!

Palimidi fort dates back to 1715 the year of its completion

Our night in Nafplio came as part of our first post-lockdown road trip.  We'd planned to island hop through the Saronic islands near the eastern coast of the Peloponnese. But with hotels not yet open on Hydra we opted to spend a night on the mainland as we made our way home from Spetses island. And there is no more perfect a place to do that than Nafplio (naf-plee-oh).

Bougainvillea-draped pedestrian streets of Nafplio

Nafplio is simply a fairy tale setting come to life. The old town's cityscape is one of medieval castles, ancient walls, Ottoman fountains and Venetian buildings. It charmed us nearly a decade ago when we first came to the Peloponnese and it continues to cast a spell over us each time we visit.

Sunset at harborside in Nafplio

It is easy to lose yourself to its charms as you stroll its narrow streets or sit sipping coffee or wine in a cafe at the side of a square -- particularly its Syntagma Square where there is always a group of children playing soccer, it seems, no matter the time of year we visit.  Syntagma, meaning 'constitution' is a perfect place to ponder what it was like back when this ancient town was the capital of the newly liberated Hellenic Republic. That would be back in the early 1800's before Athens took over that title.

Bourtzi, centerpiece of Nafplio harbor

Nafplio has served as a seaport town since back in the Middle Ages. Legend has it that it was founded by Nafplios, son of Poseidon.  A stroll along the harbor is a must. No matter how many times we have visited, we always pause to admire the Bourtzi, a small Venetian fortress on  Agioi Theordoroi. What stories that little islet could tell!

Selections at Mediterraneo Wine Bar seemed endless

The city has a bit of something for everyone. You could easily spend several days immersed in history, visiting the Palamidi fort (reached by climbing some 900 steps up the face of the cliff or driving there) or visiting its Archaeological Museum and War History Museum. Shoppers likely will tire before visiting all the shops that line the pedestrian-friendly streets.  Old traditional Greek storefronts operate next to some of the sleekest, upscale fine dining restaurants and wine bars you could find outside Athens.

Even doors are picturesque in Nafplio
It is difficult to choose a hotel there as so many boutique, family-owned places tempt.  For those wondering, our hotel was following the strictest of coronavirus prevention mandates set forth by the Greek government:  our room key was sterilized in a special sanitation process, the room as spotless and the former serve-yourself buffet breakfast was served by a staff member.


View from our hotel room

Prior to the Coronavirus world, Nafplio was a a magnet for tourists - buses filled the parking lots and tourists filled the ancient narrow streets.  The city was pretty much empty when we visited.  (True confession:  it was nice having fewer people there.) Greece doesn't open its doors to international guests until July 1st so no telling what tourism will be like this summer. For the sake of businesses, we hope there are increased numbers.

Nafplio a photographer's paradise

We are off soon on one more road trip before the borders open. We are heading west this time to visit more Peloponnese favorites and will tell you about them in our next report.  We know that a number of you are still in varying stages of lockdown and we send our wishes to you: stay safe and stay well!

As always we thank you for the time you spend with us at TravelnWrite and a big welcome to our new readers - thanks for the wonderful emails you've sent!!

Linking soon with:

Monday, June 15, 2020

In Greece ~ A Long Awaited Holibob

Refreshed and Renewed we are!

It is amazing what the shortest of holibobs will do for a traveler's soul after weeks of being COVID19-prevention-confined in the Greek Peloponnese.

Picturesque Spetses Island

Holibob
is my new word of the week.  As I've written before, being an American expat in Greece and living among expats largely from Europe has expanded our vocabulary immensely. Case in point: holibob.


Greek ferry travel is one of our favorite means of transport
When discussing our travel plans with Julia, a British friend in the village, she exclaimed, 'You are taking a holibob!' Such is the word they use to describe a trip in which one 'bobs' from one place to another.

Saronic islands - a not to miss experience

Now, doesn't that put a new spin on our phrase 'road trip'?!?

Our holibob was planned to be a four-night getaway to two islands in the Saronic Gulf.  But as we've learned in the last few months, life's travel 'plans' are probably better referred to as travel 'hopes'.

Pine trees Greek style on this mountain pass
It is a four-hour drive from our Stone House on the Hill to the tip of the 'thumb' of the Peloponnese from which the ferry to Spetses in the Saronic Island chain sets forth.  The route includes divided four-lane toll roads and tiny winding roads through orange groves and forested mountainsides. The ferry crossing is 25 minutes each way.




After two nights on Spetses we would head to nearby Hydra (Idra). That was the plan, anyway.

Travel within Greece has been allowed for a couple of weeks with hotels, eateries, tavernas and bars  getting the go-ahead to open about the same time as travel restrictions were lifted. Tourists from outside Greece begin arriving this week so we wanted to get in a 'bob' before those from elsewhere begin arriving. Greece is moving from mandatory COVID19 testing of all arrivals to random.



Hydra island in the distance 

However, relaxing the airport testing -- along with a small  spike in cases last week -- has resulted in the national COVID prevention team (scientists and doctors advising the government) being brought back together. The government has begun imposing regional and local lockdowns  and will continue to do so, as necessary as Greece continues to reopen.

Much like I wrote in our last post about Gythio, it felt so good. . .so normal. . .to be traveling again. But there is no ignoring the fact that travel is a different animal these days. Packing a packet of disposable surface cleaners, liquid hand sanitizer, sanitizer wipes and face masks -- and using them -- does put a different feel on a getaway.

All passengers must wear masks on the ferry pictured behind me


Face masks are required to be worn by all staff who serve food and beverages. Far more places we ate and sipped at than not, were complying with the rule. Many servers wore gloves as well. Face masks are required on public transportation like trains, buses and ferries with interior seating. Our open air ferry didn't require masks. . .I might add there were about a dozen walk on passengers on each of our sailings. Self distancing wasn't a problem.

Hotel Klimis (on the left) walking distance from the ferry dock

I felt silly wiping down door handles and light switch covers at The Klimis Hotel where we stayed because our room had been sanitized and cleaned before our arrival (we were told our getting into the room could be delayed for sanitizing). Whew! The smell of disinfectant was so strong we opened the doors to the deck to air it out a bit, but felt safe in knowing that the place sparkled. And yes, I still wiped down table surfaces and other such places.

Our self-distanced deck and views from it

Hand sanitizer bottles were strategically placed in common areas of the hotel, retail stores and restaurants. It is amazing how many times you touch things with little notice to the act until you've become germophobic as I seem to be these days.


A sign of the times in Spetses

There were few tourists about the town - another plus of taking a mid-week jaunt.  It had been busy the prior three-day holiday weekend, we were told.


Serious about prevention in Greece

Tavernas, bars, restaurants and shops with the exception of a few were open.  Rules about entry were new additions to the shop windows.

Distanced and ready for diners on Spetses

It wasn't until we attempted to make reservations for two nights on nearby Hydra island that we realized how 'shut down' Greece remains.  Hotels there weren't open so we cut the holibob short and headed back to the mainland, with a new plan to spend the night in an old favorite, Nafplio.   It is another like Gythio - such a favorite that I really must tell you about it next time!

Until then we hope this finds you and yours safe and well.  Add a comment or send an email and let us know how things are in your part of the world.

Linking sometime with:

Mosaic Monday
Through My Lens
Travel Tuesday
Our World Tuesday
My Corner of the World Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday

Sunday, May 31, 2020

Gythio - Re-discovering Greek treasures

Freedom. We were fleeing from the confines of lockdown. . .we were escaping!

Sun roof open and on the road again in Greece

Last week, after more than two months of traveling no further than a couple of kilometers from home, we were finally free to travel anywhere in the mainland. Greece, to its credit, has kept the curve flat and as a result is slowly coming back to life from its rather draconian, but effective, lockdown for COVID19.

We were finally free to travel as part of the country's staggered reopening. And I am here to tell you, these two vagabonds were giddy at the thought!

On the road to Gythio passing through the village of Agios Nikonas

The only catch was that this newfound freedom to travel came a week before restaurants and tavernas were allowed to completely reopen and a couple of weeks before hotels were allowed to reopen.

Fishing boats line the harbor in Gythio, Greece

Our first outing would have to be a day trip. Like kids in a candy shop, we couldn't decide which direction to travel. Finally we decided to follow the lead of  Paris and Helen and head to the charming port town Gythio, (Gytheio) on the other side of 'our point' in the Peloponnese.

Gythio - The Myth

According to Greek mythology, Gythio is said to have been founded by Heracles and Apollo.

Gythio, Greece


Paris and Helen fled to Gythio, (ghee-THEE-oh) to escape her husband, King Menelaus of Sparta.

In short: Helen of Sparta was the most beautiful woman on earth. Paris was a Trojan Prince. She and Paris fled to the island, ancient Kranae, just off the shore at Gythio, and after a night of passion they sailed to Troy. That little getaway set off the Trojan War and ultimately the end of Troy.

Okay, our getaway wasn't quite as earthshaking as that. Yet, I can tell you we felt the thrill of escape as we set out on our journey!

I am certain all of you who've experienced some sort of confinement in recent months can appreciate how it felt getting in a car, opening the sun roof and side windows -- being blasted by sun and wind -- and setting off on an adventure that takes you beyond a grocery store, pharmacy or the local take-out place!

First post lockdown daytrip route

Gythio is a little over an hour's drive from our home in The Mani region of the Greek Peloponnese. The route takes us south through several small villages and then across hills and valleys that make up the inland countryside.

We often visit this once-seaport of Sparta (some 30 miles away) because it is so close, yet so different. This picturesque town is a total contrast to the world in which we live. Its soft pastel-painted 19th century Neoclassic architecture is so very different from the harsh gray and brown stone construction that dominates our area. But never has it looked as inviting as it did after lockdown. We have been guilty of taking its charms for granted. In fact, I realize I've never even written about the place before!

Greek treasure - discovered

Mermaid on the new cruise ship dock

A Greek ferry arrives and departs this city once a week, taking passengers and cars to and from the islands of Kythira and Crete. The ferry continued running throughout the lockdown.

We've noticed in recent years, a definite upswing in tourism here, perhaps as result of being discovered by the cruise ship industry.

Cruise ships at Gythio before new dock was finished
By last year, Gythio was becoming a regular port of call for a number of small cruise ships. Among cruise lines with ships stopping here were Regent Seven Seas, Windstar and Oceania. So many ships, that a new dock was constructed at the harbor to handle the ships, tour buses and passengers.

New ship dock in Gythio sits empty

The new dock was empty. A a sad reminder of the impact of COVID19 on travel, cruise travel in particular. We were the only ones on the dock. We can't help but wonder when and if a cruise ship might dock here again.

Plenty of yachts in the harbor

The shops throughout town were open. Hotels and restaurants that line the waterfront were abuzz with activity as eateries prepared to reopen (which happened this last week) with the opening of hotels in the next few weeks.

A new wine shop, Ell-oinon, find in Gythio

We had a coffee to go and sipped it in the plateia (plaza) that serves as a roundabout for traffic on the seafront road. Traffic still swirled around the little oasis as it always has. On a street perpendicular to the waterfront, we discovered a new wine store where wine can be purchased by the liter and is poured from the barrel and box into a container the size you desire. Along the waterfront I purchased a new sun bonnet from one of my favorite tourist shops. We were the only customers in both shops.

La Boheme Boutique Hotel Gythio

For years we've said we should spend a night here. We've learned from lockdown not to put off until tomorrow as the opportunity may be lost. . .so we've already been scouting accommodations! There are plenty of them and once again, like kids in a candy store, we will have difficulty in deciding which one to choose.

Flower decked balcony in Gythio

It is a great feeling to again be making decisions about which way to go and what to do when we get there. As our adopted country continues to open, we are planning some overnight getaways in the next month. We will take the appropriate precautions but unlike some other travelers who've written about taking a bag of cleaners and disinfectants with them, we don't plan to spend our time cleaning rooms. We plan to get out and enjoy the destination. It seems as if it has been a long time since we could do that!

I'll let you know how it goes in our next post and in the meantime our wishes for safety and health wherever this finds you.  Thanks for your time today!

Linking this week with:

Mosaic Monday
Through My Lens
Travel Tuesday
Our World Tuesday
My Corner of the World Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday








Wednesday, May 13, 2020

In Greece: Missing it all ~


'I asked him in those last days what he would miss and he smiled and said in a voice as soft as dusk, Every bit of it. I only wish I had seen that sooner,' wrote Brian Andreas, American poet and author.

Sunset from The Stone House on the Hill 

I jotted  Andreas' words on the opening page of my 2020 daily journal back in January. It struck me as a powerful reminder to enjoy 'every bit of it' as the year progressed. 

It was shortly before COVID19 and pandemic would turn the world upside down.

In the past my journal entries have been notes of travels and/or events and activities that make up our expat life in a Greek village. This year - it seems for weeks now - I've charted this country's 'numbers' and steps it is taking to keep the pandemic under control. In recent days I've recorded the steps being taken to lead the country back to its 'new normal'.

In reading my entries, I realize how much I have missed those most-ordinary of things that made up my pre-pandemic days. As the passage above says, I miss 'every bit of it'. 


Expats toasting and enjoying Boxing Day last December

I've often said that being an expat sometimes feels as if we are living on borrowed time. We are long-stay guests in a country that could easily change its mind and yank the welcome mat. Or change the rules and we'd no longer qualify to be residents. As boomers, we know that one day age and/or health could bring an end to the routines of our life here. 

We've often spoken of those routine and ordinary things that make life here so interesting and how much we'll miss them when the end comes.  I don't think we realized how much of which makes this life special, that we were taking for granted. . . until the pandemic lockdown brought a temporary end to them.


Dinner out and the bus comes through town 


It has been those tasks, errands, outings that when no longer allowed, we have missed. . .the friends with whom we gather. . .we have missed. . .

A quick trip to the grocery store, 
a morning cappuccino in the village,
a spur of the moment dinner out with friends along the harbor, 
watching the public bus inch its way along the crowded waterfront road, 
having friends over, 
getting our hair cut,
taking a day trip down the coast. . .


Watching our local fishermen sell the catch each day

Yes, we've missed 'every bit of it'.

A New Day Dawning

Dressed for my first trip to Kalamata
We went to Kalamata last week, thanks to the first phase of our country's return to normal. I'll confess that in pre-pandemic days, it sometimes felt like a chore to set off for a round of shopping and errands in the big city an hour's drive north of us. With the government's lockdown in March, trips to Kalamata ended. Essential shopping - groceries and pharmacy -- was done close to home.  

After a few weeks of it being off limits we found ourselves speculating on things to do when we could go back. It felt as though we were planning a major journey. We were missing it all.

The Greek government's slow, methodic and carefully-orchestrated emergence from the near-total lockdown allowed for hair salons and barber shops to be among the first businesses to re-open. We  made (long-overdue) hair appointments! Yes, a simple hair appointment was our first activity. In the days between making the appointment and going to Kalamata, we were as giddy over the upcoming outing as if we'd been planning a major trip.

Masked, gloved and in the salon


The salon had reduced the stations and was adhering to the government's strict guidelines for distancing and cleanliness. It felt more like a trip to a medical clinic than to a beauty shop - yet, we remain grateful that Greek businesses are adhering to the safeguards dictated by the government.  We also followed the rules, face masks and gloves were the 'go-to-town' dress up attire.  Instead of growing impatient at the time spent at the salon (an attitude I held before the pandemic) I kept thinking how lucky I was to be back at the salon.  I had missed it all.

Wait in line at the supermarket - social distancing enforced

A routine part of a trip to Kalamata is always a stop at one of the large supermarkets there. Back in the 'old normal' we'd whip  through the store, grabbing what we needed as quickly as possible.  This time we took our time thinking what a treat to have different choices again beyond our local village stores. Just putting jars of Skippy peanut butter - even at its outrageous import price -- into my shopping cart was a joy. We had missed it.

Phase 2: hardware stores open -The Scout waits his turn to enter

This week the government has moved to Phase II, allowing for most retail stores to open. Our village hardware store was among them.  I can't tell you how many times being homebound we have thought of projects to do or repairs to make but each required something from the shuttered hardware store. Monday morning, face masks in place we stood in line awaiting our turn to walk into our village hardware store.  We had missed them.

At the Kalamata Shell service station - no mask, no enter

Siga, siga, as they say here, slowly, slowly, our Greek world is re-opening.  It will be another three weeks before the tavernas and restaurants in the country are allowed to open and then strict distancing rules will be enforced. While I sang the praises in last week's post of our village parking lot as our pandemic social hub, I can tell you we miss the village tavernas where we have spent hours with friends enjoying beverages and meals. The protocols will be strict for distancing, serving and all aspects of the resumption of service but the idea of meeting others again at a local place has us eagerly counting the days. We have missed those times.

ATM users social distance in Kalamata


Large hotels and resorts in Greece are scheduled to open  June1st and seasonal hotels on July 1st. The Health Ministry has issued a 16-page protocol list for distancing, cleaning and disinfecting and it promises to be a whole new world of travel. One of the favorite parts of staying in a hotel in Greece has been the lavish buffet breakfasts they offer as part of the room rate. Those buffets are to be eliminated, just one of the many 'new normal' ways of travel here. We are eager to hit the road and do some road trips - it has been too long since we've been out enjoying all Greece has to offer. We have missed it.

Air travel is expected to resume in July. There is talk that travel between Greece and some European countries may be allowed by June 15th. However, the government is taking a cautious approach when it comes to tourists and travelers entering the country.


Few cars in Kalamata this week
The rules currently being contemplated will require international travelers 72-hours BEFORE BOARDING to be tested for the virus and to show negative results. If positive, they will not be allowed on the flight. Another talked about option is that travelers will have to have 'health certificates'.  We know already that we will be missing the old ways of travel when it comes time to take that first trip back to the States.



May Day the streets were empty in the village


The reopening of Greece is unfolding as a four-phase project. While we know the old normal is gone, we are looking forward to seeing friends, dining out, and even watching the bus make its regular run through town again. . .we will be masked and socially distanced but so appreciative to have back some semblance of our old favorites. 

We've missed it all.

From your comments and emails we know that many of you in various parts of the world are also cautiously returning to a new normal. We send continued wishes for you and yours to be safe and well. As always thanks for being with us. Add a comment or drop us a line and tell us what you have missed the most during this unusual period in our world.

Linking with:



















                                                                             



LinkWithin

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...