That Pink Palace of the Pacific

Nowadays high-rise hotels surround the elegant old 'pink palace' as if sentinels protecting it from the modern world. 

The Pink Palace

Yet, back in its day, this hotel with its Spanish Moorish style architecture and striking pink facade, was a standout on Waikiki, the beach it has helped make famous. 

In its early years, the pink palace reigned over Waikiki

For nearly a century, The Royal Hawaiian Hotel, aka 'the Pink Palace of the Pacific', has provided a tropical-style old world elegant getaway to those who've spent time here.  

It was here that we decided to spend the last weekend of our Hawaiian getaway. More than a decade has passed since we'd last treated ourselves to a stay in this old charmer.  And in keeping with my 'carpe diem' approach to travel this year, it was time to do it again. 

The Royal Hawaiian remains a pink palace on the beach

 'Carpe Diem!' the Latin phrase for seize the day, seize the moment or seize the pleasure is my mantra about travel this year. Circumstances slowed our travels last year and it is high time to make up for lost experiences!

My welcome lei - live orchids

On the first day of February our cab driver eased past the modern high rises - The Sheraton, Royal Beach Tower and Outrigger Hotels -- and took us back in time as he followed the hotel's circular drive through one of its lush tropical gardens. In keeping with hotel tradition, we were greeted by uniformed valets who draped us with leis of welcome:  mine a necklace of fragile orchid blooms, and The Scout's a rope of kukui nuts.

Rocking chairs off the lobby face the tropical gardens

Somewhere between the lei greeting and spotting the rocking chairs just off the lobby, I knew we'd made the right decision about spending our final weekend here. A stay at the Royal Hawaiian, for that matter, any hotel on Waikiki is not inexpensive whether you are spending currency or accumulated hotel points (which we were). Tourism isn't quite back to pre-Covid days, but it is robust, and Waikiki continues to be one of the most popular destinations on the island of O'ahu. 

Waikiki Beach

Hawaii's Olympic medalist Duke Kahanamoku 

Waikiki Beach, perhaps the most well-known beach in all of Hawaii, is located in the heart of Honolulu, a bustling metropolis of 351,000 residents. Within it, the four-square mile area, known as Waikiki, is home to 50 hotels, nine of which are located on Waikiki beach.

Waikiki Beach

Here emergency vehicle sirens mix with soothing Hawaiian music piped from speakers along the beach sidewalk. The air is thick with scent of coconut-based suntan lotions. Palm and Banyon trees shade beach areas where surfboard storage racks stand side by side with beach shacks serving food and drink. Sun and surf enthusiasts lay colorful beach towels so close together on the sandy beach that it can be difficult to step around them. Its main drag, Kalakaua Avenue, offers well-healed shoppers a plethora of choices from Gucci and Yves Saint Lauren to Tesla. 

Banyan tree on Waikiki Beach

The name Waikiki means 'spouting water' and stems from a time when the area was home to fishponds and taro fields fed by abundant springs and rivers. It was in the early 1900's that tourism got a toehold on Waikiki with the construction of the Moana Hotel, followed a few years later by the Royal Hawaiian.

The Royal Hawaiian

Hotel opening was front page headlines in 1927

Our February 1st arrival, purely by coincidence, fell on the 98th anniversary of the hotel's grand opening.  According to its historical displays, it was a gala celebration that drew 1,200 attendees who'd paid the whopping sum of $10 a ticket to attend the affair. 

 

Opening Night Gala

However, its 98th anniversary went by without notice. Although, thanks to a Saturday night gala for the Honolulu Ballet, the hotel's common areas were again filled with guests decked out in sequined gowns and tuxedos; and while not as crowded as opening night, the scene was equally as elegant. 

Hawaii Ballet welcomes fete attendees

We'd chosen to stay in the original building instead of its newer high-rise sister hotel the Royal Beach Tower. We adore old historic hotels, and this is one of the best-preserved places we've stayed as it has all the modern conveniences incorporated into the stately old building.  

Our room with a view

We were delighted to find ourselves in an ocean view room overlooking the hotel's MaiTai beach bar. Our windows opened so we could hear the rustling palm fronds as well as the traditional Hawaiian songs sung by performers in the beach bar. 

Hotel grounds belie the modern world just outside its perimeter

With such a short stay we kept our explorations somewhat limited to strolls along the beach area and revisiting old favorites within a few blocks of the hotel. To be honest, the hotel grounds, shops and eateries were too tempting to get too far away.

Nighttime was simply enchanting

We've never been ones to commit to travels years in advance. But I admit that as we sipped our final night's wine in the hotel's MaiTai Bar, with a view of Waikiki Beach and Diamond Head, I did say that I am putting February 1st, 2027, on my bucket list/calendar. . . 

I'm betting the 100th birthday celebration is going to be something! And I'd like to be there! 

A final glass of pink (French rose wine)

Now we are back in an unseasonably cold southern Greece where we make our expat home. Hawaii goes into the memories file, and it is time to start thinking about future travels. We've got some plans shaping up, how about you?  Any upcoming trips?  Any armchair travels thanks to a good book?  Let us know in the comments or send us an email.

Again, thanks for your time with us and wishes for safe travels to you and yours~

Just A Change of 'Sea-nery'

You might say it was just a change of 'sea-nery'. 

In reality, it was so much more.  But that's the way with travel sometimes. A trip gives you far more than you expected from it!

Sunset - Ko Olina, O'ahu 

When last I wrote, we were heading off on our first big trip, the first real vacation that we'd taken in several years.  

Flight time: Hour 20 - island of O'ahu comes into view

Our destination although a familiar one, is now halfway around the world from us. I can honestly say that as I told you about the trip in my last writings I wondered if we were out of our minds taking it.  While the call to visit a favorite spot on earth was strong, as was the desire to see longtime 'same time, next year' friends, I questioned our stamina for such an undertaking after such a long dry spell.  

I am here to tell you -- now that we've been back a week -- just how glad we are that we went!  They say that travel feeds the soul, and this trip did just that for us. I didn't realize how close to empty we were running until we were actually refueling on the fabled white sand beaches of Hawaii.

The Journey

From our expat home in Greece's rural Peloponnese, the travel time was 38 hours to Kapolei a city on O'ahu, one of seven inhabited islands in Hawaii. Our return trip was 40 hours. Three flights going and three coming back. 

Wheels up, feet up aboard British Airways A380

We used airline miles and flew Business Class on all but one of the six flight segments. With 20+ hours spent in airplanes, having seats that converted into beds for the longest leg of the trip made it much easier on these two boomers.

Outbound the flight schedule required an overnight in London and coming back an overnight in San Francisco. Staying at airport hotels lengthened the trip, but it also gave us a chance to stretch our legs and break up the journey.

A New Look at an Longtime Favorite

Hawaii became the 50th state in the United States back in 1959.  Yet, in many ways it feels like such an autonomous tropical island that on at least two occasions we got a good laugh when we overheard fellow visitors asking residents, about how something was done on the island and then explaining to them how it is done 'back in the States'. 

KoOlina,mixed use development on O'ahu's west side

It had been five years since our last visit and we wondered if perhaps we'd 'outgrown' Ko Olina, which in Hawaiian means, 'place of joy'. We wondered if it might have lost some of its magic. It didn't take long after arriving at the mixed-use development (homes, shops, and tourist accommodations) for us to know it still held us in its charms. 

Wood sculpture honoring native fishermen of yesteryear

Back in the days before Greece, when it was our annual winter destination from the Pacific Northwest, I think we had begun to take Hawaii a bit for granted. It was close, warm, convenient and of course, a beautiful destination.  Having not visited for a while, this trip had us seeing it through new eyes. We paid more attention to its pride in its Pacific Islander heritage and culture, its stunning beauty and the commitment of its residents to 'malama ka 'aina' caring for and protecting the land.

Our go-to coffee spot amid lush gardens

One thing life in Greece has taught us to do is to slow our pace. We approached our timeshare life this time with that attitude. We took daily strolls through the palm-tree shaded grounds on a path bordering the sea. We sipped coffee without hurry amid the lush tropical gardens - the vivid greenery and colors being something we miss in Greece. We found ourselves taking more of a 'live in the moment' approach to enjoying the resort.   

A drive in the countryside is rejuvenating

Our outings by car took us through miles of sugar cane and pineapple fields to reach favorite beaches, towns and resorts on the island's North Shore and further west to its vast undeveloped Kaena Point.  

Moana magic in Hawaii

The sea, moana, as it is called in Hawaiian, simply mesmerized us with its shades of blue, turquoise, and greens.  Stunning colors, not completely unlike those of the Mediterranean, but yet so differently seductive that we often found ourselves gobsmacked by the views.  And what a treat to walk on those white granulated sugar beaches so totally unlike the stone carpeted beaches in our area of Greece.  

Old favorites; Places and People

Costco one of my happy places

While beach times were magnificent, I have to tell you that the trips we took to the Kapolei Costco were equally exciting for those of us expats who miss shopping at that big box store. (Greece doesn't have Costco.)  Shopping in some of our favorite locally owned retail and grocery stores, many that opened their doors decades ago on the island, has always been a treat and this trip was no exception. 

Fish burger and onion rings were shared by two

Hawaii is a food lovers paradise, especially when you have been away from it for some time.  We stuffed ourselves with ono grindz, good Hawaiian food. We left the healthy Mediterranean Diet behind and junked out on junk food -- Hawaiian potato chips, tortilla chips and dips that we don't get in Greece. We cooked meals at home by barbequing steaks, halibut and mahi mahi fish, along with pounds of asparagus during our two-week stay.

Time spent with same time, next year friends

We spent time with old friends - some who've known us for multiple decades. Others that we have met because of our timeshare life. One of the things we miss in expat life is spending time with those friends we used to see regularly. As I've written before, we don't often have friends traveling the distance to see us in Greece. So when a trip we take gives us the opportunity for get-togethers, walks, talks, giggles it is a double bonus. 

A Change of 'Sea-nery' 

We've missed palm trees

Our change of 'sea-nery' trip not only improved our moods and outlook on life but also bolstered our confidence in our being mentally and physically able to still travel.  We again proved to ourselves that we are not 'too old' to set off into the world.  Sure, the flights were long, and we walked like stiff-legged Lego-people up the jet-aways after arrivals.  We were more than ready for each flight to end. Once we reached our destinations we suffered 'jet lag' but it wasn't as debilitating as we had expected it to be. 

Menehune - mythical dwarf people who live deep in Hawaii forests

Not everything went smoothly. We did have a couple of those 'turned around' moments when we found ourselves heading in the wrong direction, as evidenced in our attempt to catch the correct underground train in SeaTac airport and again in our attempt to drive out of the rental car facility in Honolulu. Had either of those been filmed it would have made a great comedy reality show. 

A change of sea-nery - just what we needed!

Our time spent in Hawaii was far too short for the distance we had traveled; we concluded just a week after we got there. We spent two weeks at our timeshare property on O'ahu's west side and two nights in a hotel on its iconic Waikiki Beach. 'Next time' we said, 'we will stay longer. . .but maybe before we return, we need to set our travel sights out a bit further'. There are a lot of islands out there still calling out to be explored before we get 'too old'. I'll tell you more about that at some future date.

In the meantime, I'll leave you with the words of Frederick Buechner who sums up my thoughts on life and travel well. We thank you for the time you've spent with us today!  And we wonder if you've had a recent change of 'sea-nery' that served you well beyond being a good trip? Tell us about it in the comments or shoot us an email. We love hearing of your travels! 

Back to that First Love ~

It was love at first sight. . .and scent. No doubt about it.  I recall the moment as if it were yesterday.  

I had arrived in Honolulu, Hawaii. My first solo trip. My introduction to the land of swaying palm trees, white sand beaches, and ocean waves.   

Hawai'ian sunset

Stepping from the Northwest Orient 747 aircraft I found myself in a tropical paradise. The air was thick and scented with the perfume of the island's blooms:  jasmine, tuberose, hibiscus, plumeria, and other exotics that I didn't recognize. 

Hybiscus blooms in Hawaii

Leis, those flower necklaces with intoxicating aromas were sold from stands that filled the open-air arrivals terminal. Hawaiian music played in the background and total strangers called out greetings of 'Aloha' as I made my way to baggage claim. 

 Before I set foot outside the airport, my love affair with Hawaii had begun.

Lei'd and luau bound - Diamond Head in the background 

Hawai'i became America's 50th state when I was barely six years old.  It was still in statehood infancy when 20 years later I flew there from Seattle to meet a good friend who was coming from Guam. We had been cub reporters together in Central Washington State, and for the week we were together we were a pair of intrepid travelers.  

Intrepid travelers in Hawaii

That introduction to islands and tropical life went far too quickly. The Scout and I met and married the following year, and luckily Hawaii was a favorite destination of his as well. It became a go-to holiday for us.  

State of Hawaii in the middle of the Pacific Ocean

 

Over the years we explored this state set in the Pacific Ocean some 2,400 miles from San Francisco to the east and 5,200 from Manila to the west.  Each of its islands -- Maui, Kauai, Kona, Molokai and Lanai -- enticed us with their individual charms.  

Kauai

But it was on O'ahu, the island that captured my heart back so many years ago, where we ultimately purchased a timeshare so that we could escape Pacific Northwest winters for several weeks each year.

KoOlina - O'ahu

The development which it is located, on the west side of the island, is named Ko'Olina, 'place of joy' in Hawaiian. It encompasses an 11-acre area called Lanikuhonua,'where Heaven meets the earth'.  Both are apt descriptions of the area to our way of thinking.

KoOlina - place of joy

Maintaining that Love Affair with Hawaii

Even after our move to Greece we returned to Hawaii each winter. We found one of the benefits of 'same time, next year' travel was the friendships made with people who are at the same place you are, at the same time, each year. For a few weeks each year, the island was our world; a place where we have our favorite grocery stores, beaches, walks, and a close-knit group of friends with whom we socialize. 

Same time next year friends that we will see soon

Our last stay was January 2020, just weeks before Covid shut down the world of travel.  

By the time travel resumed, we had other destinations lined up to explore as lockdown made us realize that putting off such trips to a future date, might not be the best idea 'at our ages'. As a result, we've rented out those weeks in Hawaii and have traveled elsewhere.  Each year though, we'd say, 'next year we will go back to Hawaii'.  

And . . .this year is 'next year'! 

Hawaii bound

By the time some of you read this, we will be Hawaii bound.  It is a journey that will take two days of travel and require an overnight in London. We will drive to Athens, fly from there to Heathrow the first day, and the next morning fly to Seattle where we will catch a flight to Honolulu. Just about 9,000 airmiles, 20 flight hours, and three planes. 

KoOlina's famous, 'Frozen MaiTai'

This trip will help us determine if we still have the 'get up and go' required for such long trips. We are prepared for sticker shock as we acclimate (or not) to the prices of this popular tourist destination. We are prepared for traffic jams on the freeway that link the airport to our 'place of joy'. Hawaii, like all wonderful places in the world, has to deal with 'overtourism' and its related issues these days. 

Winter wave at KoOlina

This trip will also bring us together with friends we haven't seen in far too long. We'll have long walks, visits, outings and pupu parties (we call them mezes in Greece and appetizers in the Pacific Northwest).  We will spend time on white sand beaches and watch palm trees sway in the tropical breeze. 

 I anticipate a rekindling of this Hawaiian love affair. . . stay tuned for the rest of this story.

Swaying palms - a tropical favorite at KoOlina

Until our next report, our wishes to you are for safe travels, and a happy, healthy New Year! And, as always, Mahalo, thanks, for the time you've spent with us today!

The Gathering

The gathering on the morning of January 6th in our small Greek fishing village was much the same as it is every year on that date.  

And maybe that is why I think it is one of my very favorite celebration days in this expat life of ours.  

The Gathering 2025

The minute the bells rang out from our village church, the excitement began building among those of us gathered together. Even though we knew that a processional would be arriving from the church and what would happen at the harbor once it got there, the anticipation rippled through the crowd just as it has every year.   

Singing an Epiphany Kalanda - a tradition

We were gathered for the Blessing of the Waters; the day of the Epiphany, or Theophany (both words stem from the Greek words for 'revelation' or 'revelation of God.) Some of you may know the day as Three Kings Day. It is the festival day celebrating the coming of the Magi as the first manifestation of Jesus Christ as God and it also celebrates Christ's baptism in the Jordan River. 

Traditions and celebrations date back decades in our village

Celebrations such as the one in our village take place in Greek communities around the world and they have taken place for centuries. Archaeological evidence shows that celebrations of the baptism were celebrated by Greek speaking parts of the Roman Empire as far back as 200 AD. And even though we don't know enough Greek to understand what is being said in the ceremony, there is something about helping carry on such traditions and celebrations that makes the day extra special.

We couldn't help pondering how similar today's ceremony was to those held decades ago in our village.

To the Cross they swam

We'd arrived early to join friends for breakfast at one of the harborside restaurants.  Our table at the side of the road gave us a spot for viewing the religious ceremony that would take place as well as a strategic spot to greet friends and neighbors as they began arriving for the midmorning event. Greeks, expats, residents, visitors, young and old gathered to watch the brief but beautiful ceremony.

A toss of the Cross

Our Pappas Panayotis blessed the cross and dipped it twice into the harbor.  The third toss was out into the middle of the harbor. As it landed, a group of swimsuit-clad faithful dove in to retrieve it.  

The Cross is returned

A young girl - from a much larger group of swimmers than we've had in the past -- retrieved the cross this year. Applause rang out as she raised it out of the water. 

The end of the holiday season comes to the village

This day also marks an unofficial end to the Christmas and New Year's holiday.  Soon the seasonal decorations will come down and the focus will turn to spring, the reopening of stores and the influx of tourists.

But for today, we gathered as a village at the water, just as we will next year and hopefully for many more years to come.

We hope the New Year has started off well for you and yours. May your year be filled with travels and traditions.  Thanks for being with us and until next time, safe travels ~

Home for the Holidays

On a chilly mid-December evening, the brightly lit boat across the harbor was a clear reminder that the festive season had arrived.  I say 'festive season' -- not Christmas -- because the illuminated boat was erected to honor the real Saint Nikolaos - not Santa.  

Agios Nikolaos - patron saint of sailors

Saint Nikolaos is the revered patron saint of sailors in Greece. For that reason, villages traditionally display a decorated boat to honor his December 6th birthday. Many keep the boat on display throughout the month making it the community's holiday centerpiece.

'Tis the Season in Agios Nikolaos

The spectacular blue and white boat is new in our village this year. Provided by the Municipality, as our regional government is called, it is the first such grand decoration we've had in the decade that we've been here. It has unofficially become the symbol of this year's holiday season. 

A decade ago, manger scenes were the village decoration

During our first few Christmas seasons here, villages, including ours, displayed a manger scene, similar to the one above that I photographed several years ago in the village of Kambos. Over the years, the manger gave way to a decoration or two on a light pole; one year a star, another a small boat.

During our first few Christmases here, we found decorations, wrapping paper and ribbon to be scarce. Kalamata, our big city to the north, was the place to search for such items.  But the times are changing and now our local supermarket has devoted a good amount of space on both of its floors to Christmas items ranging from large artificial Christmas trees to themed salt and pepper shakers, toys and gifts. 

Shelves of decorations at our local supermarket

We know that along with Christmas items comes Santa. We think back again to the early years here when the village children awaited a visit from Agios Vasilis (Saint Basil) on New Year's Day as he was the one who brought a present to reward those good little boys and girls. Santa seems nowadays to have materialized as the season's lead character. The one pictured below maintained a Santa's house on the Main Square in Kalamata for weeks before Christmas.  Maybe if they are lucky - or very, very good - Greek children now get presents from both.

Songs being sung for Santa Claus in Kalamata

Thankfully -- to our way of thinking -- the glitz of Christmas hasn't yet overtaken the villages. Christmas Eve morning we spotted two groups of children, traveling minstrels they were, out singing Greek kalandas (carols) in the village. Hopefully they will return on the morning of New Year's Eve as well. While their efforts are usually off-tune, they spread good cheer and hope that maybe small coins or sweets will be offered for their melodies.

Singers at our door, a few years ago.

Aside from that brightly lit boat, there are few decorations - certainly nothing like the bright lights and displays of Athens, Thessaloniki and other large cities. There are decorations though and we've been lucky enough to spot a few as we run errands.  The one pictured below is near a small roadside shrine just outside the laundry in our neighboring village, Stoupa.

And one morning we came across the understated but seasonal decoration of oranges and pomegranates below hanging between two buildings in the village of Kardamyli. 

Good to eat and a great decoration as well

In Stoupa the Municipality has replaced the small lighted boat on a light post with a gigantic star that lights up at night overlooking its harbor.

Stoupa's star, is a backdrop for visitor's holiday photos

Here, we are Home for the Holidays

It is here; we are home for the holidays again this year.  And being home for the holidays takes on a slightly different twist when you are an expat living in a country not your own.  

Kalamata decked out for Christmas

Being in this new environment has gotten us out of the holiday routines we had perfected over the years.  Here we've blended new behaviors with some of the traditions we brought with us from our old world. 

Maybe one of the best things about holidays here is discovering how easy it is to enjoy them. We gather with friends on Christmas Eve and again on Christmas morning no longer worried that they will be busy with family commitments as was the case back in our old world. 

As cliche as it may sound, the expat friends have become an extended family of sorts.  

Our gatherings are unhurried affairs, stretching for hours.as there are no longer those self-imposed deadlines we attached to the holiday before. We are free to enjoy the time together. It makes for a very laid-back and relaxing experience.  

Christmas morning tradition, photo 2022 - not as warm this year

This year our expat friends from California hosted a happy hour at their home on a stormy Christmas Eve. It was such a relaxed affair that we ate, drank and made merry without regard to the passing of time or the storm raging outside.

By morning the weather had calmed enough we could attend another gathering of many of the same friends at the beach cafe near our home. This beach gathering just 'happens' each Christmas morning as there is no event organizer. We all show up at some point in late morning for coffee and conversation. It began so many years ago, that no one really remembers who started the tradition. 

Christmas dinner in the village

While back in the old world, the traditional cooking of and consuming prime rib with all the trimmings pretty much filled our Christmas Day. Here our developing tradition is to feast at one of our local eateries.  

Second Chrismas 2024

And here the day after Christmas is also a holiday, referred to as 'the second day of Christmas' unless you are a British expat and then it is Boxing Day.  A morning coffee in the village, a few minutes gazing at the ocean, a lazy afternoon and evening . . .home for the holidays, we certainly are!

Our holiday wishes to you and yours! We hope that whatever your season or celebration, that it is a good one.  And may your 2025 be happy, healthy and filled with travel, be it real or armchair!

Until next time, thanks for the time you spent with us today ~

 

  

Oh, there's no place like home for the holidays                                                                                        Cause no matter how far away you roam                                                                                                  When you pine for the sunshine of a friendly face                                                                                      You can't beat home sweet home.