Changes in Latitudes ~ Changes in Attitudes

‘If you change the way you look at things, the things you look at change.’

                             -- Dr. Wayne Dyer

Our Maggie Mae watches the world from The Stone House on the Hill

We are now a few weeks short of our first anniversary as full-time expats. By whatever measure: One year. Three hundred sixty five days. Twelve months. Four seasons. We've managed to make our goal of ‘living differently’ before old age, health or common sense prevented us from doing so.

As I’ve told you periodically throughout the year, our change of latitude -- from a suburban Pacific Northwest city to village life among the olive groves in the rural Greek Peloponnese -- has prompted new behaviors in us both. We’ve developed new skills and been surprised by the resurfacing of some of the long lost talents within us.

From Seattle suburbs to Agios Nikolaos - a change in latitude

It isn’t the latitude, but it and the way of life, that has prompted most of the change in attitude.  Some of the changes have happened so gradually that I was rather gobsmacked by just how differently we – especially, me -- see things now.

I'll look back on this

and smile

because it was 

LIFE

and I decided to 

live it.

                     -- Unknown

Less is More (than Enough)

A small rectangular glass casserole is my serving dish, baking, roasting and marinade pan.  If I bake a cake in it, I plan my subsequent cooking to synch with when it will be empty. In our previous life I had stacks of such dishes, which I didn’t ever really use but I sure liked knowing they were there IF I needed them. Our tiny Greek kitchen just doesn’t have the space for all the gadgets I once routinely had stored away for occasional use in our U.S. life.

Old-life walk in closet; new life cubby hole.

Speaking of tiny, take our bedroom closet. Well, it isn’t a closet. It’s more an armoire and a definite downsize from the walk-in closet in our old life. No walking into this one. In fact the bedroom is so small there’s no walking past it either if the other of us is standing at the end of the bed. Our far-fewer clothes co-mingle in this tiny space. Seasonal items get folded up and put in storage bags until they are needed. A small clothes rack holds daily wear. Shoes -- instead of lining the length of a closet – sit together on a small rack.

I remember last year wondering how we’d (I’d!) ever be able to  live – full time!! -- with such little storage and so few things. Now, I wonder why we/I had all that stuff?

The local junk man collects unwanted metal and hauls it away

It's those changes in latitudes,
Changes in attitudes nothing remains quite the same.

                 -- Jimmy Buffett

Paciencia manana es otro dia – Patience, tomorrow is another day

I’ve concluded, by watching us deal with situations here, that our American upbringing and lifestyle encourages a lack of patience.  We expect a quick fix/repair/response to all problems and situations.

However, Greece – like Mexico where the phrase above was a daily mantra -- is still attempting to teach us to have patience. If it doesn’t get done/fixed/repaired/solved today, there’s always the promise of tomorrow.

And what’s the rush anyway?  We wait for parts to be delivered to stores, we wait for repairmen to appear, and wait for our mail to arrive once-a-week, on Thursdays. We even wait in our car when the driver of the car in front of us stops in the middle of the road, rolls down his/her window and chats with the person driving the car going the opposite direction.

Life continues on and we are really no worse for not getting things done with immediacy.

Kalamata coffee houses - no rush, no worry

We collected another example this week in Kalamata when we had back-to-back appointments at the dentist and the hair salon. We had them synchronized down to the time it would take to walk between the two places. Then the dentist arrived at work 20 minutes late.  As the first one in her chair, I told her I had only about 40 minutes until my next appointment. Her response, “You want me to call your next appointment and tell them you will be late?”

I was late to the salon, as was The Scout, who followed in the scheduling progression, but we seemed the only two to care about it. The teeth were cleaned and the hair was cut . . .paciencia, manana es el otro dia.

You get time to appreciate things.

Perspective, you start looking at things differently. .

  -- Tupac Shaker

Building a New World

I’ll admit now that I was the one who fretted most about ‘leaving friends behind’. While I wanted to live differently, I also wanted to keep things the same when it came to ‘my world’: I had friends I met for coffee and others for lunch and others with whom I chatted on a regular basis.

We all vowed to stay in touch.

Of course that wasn’t going to happen.

We knew it as we said it.

But several of us do stay in touch by writing long chatty emails (almost as good as face-to-face). Other friends have thrilled us by making the effort to come visit – most by combining a visit to our place with visiting some other destination on this side of the Atlantic. We’ve had quality time with those guests and spend hours in conversation and laughter that we likely wouldn’t have made the time for back in the U.S.

Off for a morning coffee with my friend

In our new world, I  now have a regular coffee date with a friend here and instead of hopping in the car as I used to and racing to the coffee shop, I walk our twisty road down our hill, through olive groves to a beach cafe. My friend follows a similar route. The walk and the coffee take most of our morning – but, why not? There’s always tomorrow for the things we don’t get done today.

A new world is built: friends gathering for Easter Dinner 

As a couple, we have new circle of  friends with whom we socialize regularly and to whom we know we can turn to for help if needed. Coffee, lunch or dinner with them can span hours – and again, if something doesn’t get done because of it, there’s always tomorrow.

Chelan, Washington: 48.027 latitude

The Mani, Peloponnese: 36.84 latitude

It seems somewhat ironic that as our first year comes to a close we are heading back to Washington State to move those remaining belongings from our suburban storage unit near Seattle to our new house in the Chelan/Manson area of  rural eastern Washington State. We’ll be out of the internet world for awhile next week, but I’ll report back on our Northwest moving adventures as soon as we are again 'connected'.

And by mid- October we’ll be back to our hillside home in the Peloponnese to start the next chapter of ‘living differently’.

Safe travels to you and yours. And thanks for the time you spend with us on these adventures of ours and for all the support you’ve given us through your comments and messages. It is good to have you with us, no matter which latitude we find ourselves.  See you soon!

Linking this week with:
Through My Lens
Our World Tuesday
Wordless Wednesday
Communal Global
Travel Photo Thursday – 
Best of Weekend

Making Lemonade on Zakynthos island

It was late afternoon on a hot August day on the Greek island of Zakynthos.

Our Greek island hopping road trip had put us on a rather well-worn old – and very crowded –  ferry heading to the island also known by its Italian name, Zante; our final stop on this week-long adventure.

Alexandro Beach Resort - Zante

By the time the ferry arrived, we were more than ready to be at the resort on Tsilivi Beach we’d booked for three nights. But as we wound our way through its pedestrian- and car-congested streets we realized it could rival Waikiki Beach in terms of resorts, restaurants and souvenir shops competing for space and customers.

Our long travel day was getting longer as the cell phone overheated with its GPS churning to find the place with no address other than ‘on the beach’.

We gave up and I called the hotel asking for directions. The desk clerk put me on hold after I asked how to find them.

When he returned to the phone, he told me to call back.  I did.

The phone wasn’t answered.

Not the best way to start . . .

Beach Resort Zante

We did finally reach our destination, the Sentido Alexandra Beach Resort, but only after stopping at another hotel and getting a map and directions.

Once checked in, we figured the trip was looking up as we headed to our room in the expansive hotel wing overlooking the pool and the sea.

Now those of you who’ve ‘traveled’ with us via this blog for some time probably recognize, that this isn’t ‘our kind’ of hotel. We go for the small, quaint, mom-and-pop-type places but in August Greek beach accommodations are booked months in advance, this sprawling resort had availability, looked fine in photos and was pretty highly recommended on TripAdvisor. So what the heck? We’d give it a try!

It was clean, the grounds well maintained and it was packed with families and holiday-makers.

Not quite functioning

Our  room, with its shades of tans and beige paint, was the same color palette used for bed and couch coverings. There were no decorations or wall hangings. It felt functional – well, until: we flushed the toilet and it wouldn’t quit running; or when the bathroom door would swing open and hit the toilet with a dull thud. The internet signal was so weak we couldn’t connect and the hot water pot for coffee didn’t work.   The price of the room was 188 euros ($218) per night.  ('But other than that, how was the play, Mrs. Lincoln?').

The Lemon

We’d obviously landed a lemon of a room. My note for a replacement water pot was tossed the next day by the maid while the malfunctioning pot remained. Niagara Falls continued to flow through the toilet, the door ‘thumped’ and the front desk is probably still ‘looking into the internet’ as they promised they would.

We stayed two nights and moved after finding an available night in another hotel. The resort did  refund our third night’s advance payment.

The Lemonade

We'll be back to Freddie's for sure!

You really can make lemonade out of lemons! The saving grace for the hotel was its location: walking distance to Freddie’s Beach Bar – a long-time favorite of visitors to this area. This family owned place was the highlight of our stay in Tsilivi – we spent two delightful evenings there enjoying the ambiance, visiting with owners Robert and Ritsa Wallace and staff and dining on excellent food and enjoying libations. A trip to Zante is not complete without a stop here.

Out and About!

Blue sea, striking coastlines - Zante

The island of Zakynthos lies in the Ionian Sea off the western coast of Greece and it is part of the Ionian Island group. Its neighbor island Corfu is likely better known my Americans, but Europeans flock to this place – especially in summer.  And don’t let the story of getting a lemon of a hotel room color your thinking about the island – it is beautiful and we can see why it is popular.

Zakynthos - an island of contrasts

We spent a day touring the northern part of the island; the narrow winding road led us through olive groves, along the coastline, high up into the mountains through small Greek villages and roadside stands. Its residences range from modest to mansion.

Zante/Zakynthos Town

The pedestrian area stretches for blocks in town - Zakynthos

Our final day and night were spent exploring this sprawling harbor town - a delightful contrast (in our minds) to the over-run beach resort. There were plenty of tourists but it was large enough an area to absorb us all and  didn’t feel as congested as had the resort area. In fact, for an hour or so we had a rooftop bar at a harbor front hotel to ourselves as we watched marine traffic.

Let the harbor show begin.. . 

Well, some of the crew members were pretty entertaining as well.

The wee assistant caught our eye

Three days was hardly enough time to touch the surface of exploring the island and its beaches. We  could spend another day or two wondering the streets of town, visiting churches and museums.  And one day we’ll likely return to continue those explorations – sometime other than the August!

A fantastic ferry - brand new and like a cruise ship!

The ferry that took us back to the mainland was recently built and top of the line.  We’ll make sure the next time we travel we do so on the Levante Ferry Line!

September has arrived at The Stone House on the Hill and with it, signs of autumn’s arrival.  We are coming upon a year of being full time ex pats and next week I’ll tell you a bit about how our change in latitude has definitely changed some of our attitudes. Thanks for being with us! Safe travels to you and yours ~

Linking up today with:
Through My Lens
Our World Tuesday
Wordless Wednesday
Communal Global
Travel Photo Thursday – 
Best of Weekend
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Lefkada ~ Let the Greek island hop begin!

We must go and see for ourselves.

   -- Jacques Cousteau

As I wrote last week,when we set off on our Greek island-hopping road trip, we ‘knew better'. We knew we’d be part of the tourist masses swarming to the Greek islands in August. In our case we were heading north to Lefkada, (lef-KAH-dah) also known as Lefkas, in the Ionian Sea.

We did find ourselves among throngs of tourists but it wasn’t so bad at all. . .in fact the pulsating, vibrant Lefkada town was just the shot of city life I’d been seeking.

Havana Club - Lefkada town

But if you are in search of quaint Greek fishing boats and blue and white painted tavernas with octopus drying out front, this might not be the place for you.

In our case (as much as we love all-things-Greek) we are discovering that sometimes we need a break from all those Greek things. This town, with its distinctly Caribbean colors and a surprising number of bars offering a Mojito as the drink of the day, gave us that needed change of scenery.

The colors in Lefkada town were invigorating

The place also had a distinct Italian ambiance with a number of stores offering Italian made products – from Murano glass items and Italian leather goods to clothing.  (Its history, like so much of Greece, includes Italian occupation.) The bridge at the lagoon even looked like something right out of Venice – complete with selfie-taking tourists crowding onto it.

Bridge of Sighs - good sighs, that is - Lefkada town

“But, of course” (our favorite catch-phrase in Greece), there were plenty of tourist shops offering all sorts of Greek souvenirs, and plenty of Mediterranean cafes with menus that looked distinctly Greek.

Toe-tapping street musicians entertained nightly

Since most sun-seekers on Lefkada headed to the beach during the day, we had plenty of walking and shopping space in which to explore the town of some 9,000 residents. Then when evening rolled around the city’s pulse quickened as tourists and locals turned out in force and there was a street party feel everywhere we went.

(And we did stroll because most of the main streets in the historic center of town were closed to vehicular traffic in the evenings – a very nice and wise touch!)

Captivating carousel - Lefkada town

A musical group entertained near one plaza while a few blocks away, a merry-go-round that reminded us of one we’d seen in Florence, Italy enchanted kids of all ages.

Earthquake Memories!

Corrugated metal siding - Lefkada town

Lefkada island suffered damage back in the1953 Ionian Earthquake that leveled the capital city of nearby Zakynthos island and literally raised the island of Kefalonia 24 inches, according to accounts of the catastrophic event.

Sidewalls of metal to protect against earthquake damage - Lefkada town

So many of the wooden homes in the heart of – now, ‘historic’ – Lefkada town were damaged in the quake that as a safeguard against future seismic activity wood-sided homes and businesses now sport corrugated metal siding which only added to the Caribbean look and feel of the place.

But why Lefkada? A Room With a View

As the The Scout  was plotting out where our summer travels might take us, he happened upon a hotel in Lefkada, the Hotel Boschetto. The more we read about it, the more we wanted to stay there. And to stay there, we had to go to the island! (That is sometimes how easy our travel destination selection can be.)

Hotel Boschetto - Lefkada town

Boschetto, we were told by one of two Greek brothers who own the place, is Italian for ‘small garden’ and was once the name of the area in which the hotel is located. All that remains today is a small fenced the garden in front of the hotel, which is housed in a building that once sold oil from its street level and upper floors served as the home of Anthonis Tzevelekis, a well-liked civic leader and founder of the island’s popular summer folklore festival.

The International Folklore Festival of Lefkada has grown so large that if you plan to attend, reservations for hotels must be secured months in advance.

A room to remember at Hotel Boschetto - Lefkada town 

We booked the Junior Suite at the very top of the building for a rate of 145 euros a night. Each morning a waitress from the restaurant below brought coffee to our room and then we dined on a full  breakfast (included in the room rate) on the street level.

For those of you who like to compare prices, the rate is equivalent to $168US. To put the price in perspective a room with sitting area at the Fairfield Inn in my hometown of Yakima WA costs $204 a night in August – and offers a parking lot view, serve yourself continental breakfast and no room service.

Evening in August in Lefkada

The hotel which has been in operation for two decades really was the pull to get to get us to Lefkada. It is definitely a reason to return to the island that sits off the west coast of mainland Greece in the Ionian Sea.

And we will need to return as two full days didn’t give us enough time to visit the traditional Greek villages tucked away in the mountains nor to explore the many beaches that ring the island.

If you missed the part about how we got here; here’s last week’s post: Island hopping road trip

Our next stop is the island of Zakynthos, or by its Italian name, Zante, to the south. Hope you’ll join us next week when we tell you how we made lemonade out of a lemon of a stop there.

Thanks as always for the time you spent with us today and until we are together again, safe travels to you and yours ~

Linking with:
Through My Lens
Our World Tuesday
Wordless Wednesday
Communal Global
Travel Photo Thursday – 
Best of Weekend