When Paradise. . .isn't

 I am the guilty one.  I've led you to believe we live in a continual paradise. 

Cypress silhouettes, the sea and sunset. . .paradise. . .

I'm the one who so often writes about the wonders of this adopted Greek life - those glorious sunsets, the sweeping views of the sea and mountains, of our picturesque fishing village, and the charming taverns where we sip morning coffee or evening wine. 

 Days of bliss, I've led you to believe. 

A toast to sunset at Pantazi Beach - a blissful time of day

Much of the time, the days do pass blissfully, both at our Stone House on the Hill and in our rural Peloponnese community. But the reality is that sometimes even our adopted paradise . . .isn't!  

Victims from my Mediterranean garden hauled away - others burned

I'm guilty of not telling you how storms destroy that Mediterranean garden I've rhapsodized about growing. I haven't told you about the frustrations that come with internet and power outages and water shortages, that can leave us in the dark for hours and without water sometimes for days. Nor have I mentioned unrepaired roads with potholes so large they can crack the sturdiest of a vehicle's shock absorbers.  

Expats and locals could fill a book with tales of dealing with bureaucracy and of resorting to a 'do it yourself' solution when those dealings fall on deaf ears.   

Do it yourself road repair - a neighborhood effort

But then, where is the romance and glamour of expat living in those kinds of tales? It is more fun to write, and probably more fun to read about, those paradisiacal moments that we do have here. 

Every once in a while, though, we go through a spell that makes me think I should tell you about the other times. January was one of those spells. . . those times when paradise simply, isn't!  

The Morning After - not in Paradise

Yucca trunk remains after the storm

Two weeks ago, Mother Nature held us hostage in our Stone House on the Hill for the better part of two days and nights while the wind howled and shrieked around us and horizontal sheets of rain attacked structures and plants. Every so often there'd be a loud crash or bang outside. A window shutter slammed closed after the force of the wind ripped its clamp from the wall.  We had to wait for a break in the wind to even step outside to close the door shutters before they, too, ripped loose from the wall. 

We'd prepared for a storm- the Greek emergency alerts had given warning prior to its arrival - but not for a storm of the magnitude that hit. 

Pantazi Beach Bar this week

We've come to expect a strong storm or two and the cleanup it requires each winter. The kind in which churning ocean waves hurtle stones and sand from the beaches onto the roads and parking lots. There's always plenty of cleanup after a winter storm. But our most recent storm was merciless and left our village looking somewhat like a war zone. 

While not as bad as the storm that had just swept through Malta and Sicily, we had wind gusts of 106 km/hr, (65 mph).  The sustained winds were estimated to be about half that. Large established trees were pulled from the ground as easily as we pluck out a weed. Cliffs and hillsides gave way to small avalanches and dips in roads and parking lots became lakes.

My Mediterranean garden - not my happy place right now

Six yucca tree trunks snapped in our yard, one of which took down my clothesline. Lemons and oranges were stripped from their branches. We lost a large branch out of an olive tree, snapped as easily as a matchstick. Leaves were stripped from bushes, plants and trees. Large ceramic pots had been upended, many broken.

Most of these were damaged and ended up in the compost bin

Similar damage was reported throughout the villages in our area. Fourteen olive trees were uprooted in our friend's olive grove just south of us. There were no injuries to humans - for that we all are thankful.

Several friends were without power and/or water during the storm. We were among the lucky ones who had heat, lights and water to weather it.  We didn't lose water until a few days after the storm ended. Our 2,000-liter water tank ran dry as there was no municipal water coming to our house.

The Search for Water 

Water lines serving our area 

Municipal water is supplied via a haphazard system of small PVC pipes that sometimes lay on top of the ground. They wind down steep hillsides and through gorges, sometimes along remote hiking paths and other times at the side of roadways.

Sunday afternoon a neighbor joined us to hike into the hills and find the source of our problem. We finally found it near our home at the side of the road we travel to get to our home. A toppled Cyprus tree had caused an avalanche when its roots were ripped from the ground, burying the water pipe serving our neighborhood. 

We hired workers to unearth the pipe that afternoon. The municipality needed to reconnect the pipes.

Exit Paradise - Enter One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest. . .

The tree that took out the water lines

Monday morning bright and early we were at the Municipality's water department, reporting our problem to one of two - both English-speaking -- clerks..

Much to our surprise, the visit was quick and efficient.  We made the report, we provided photos of the damaged pipe needing repair and of the area it was in, we dropped a pin on the exact location on a Google Map so the plumber wouldn't have to spend time searching for it. 

We were told that the municipal plumbers had a lot of calls to make so we offered to hire a private plumber. No, we were told, it would have to be prepared by the municipality.

No the repairs hadn't been made - we sent this photo

Next morning we received an email saying the plumber had made the repair and asking if we had water. 

No, we didn't have water. And no repairs had been made.

These two pipes still need to be connected, we wrote

We took photos showing water still flowing out of an unattached pipe and of the two disconnected hoses.  We sent them to City Hall. 

Next morning we called the nice human who spoke English.  Yes, he said, he'd seen the two photos we sent (the two appearing above).

Then he told us in English that the plumber had repaired the pipe and that we should check our meter because it might be leaking. . .

It wasn't paradise - was it  a remake of the movie, 'One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest'?

We've got water again at our house!

That was when we hired a plumber. He came out and in less than a half hour made the repair pictured above, restoring water to our house.  

More Expat Tales

Our stormy weather continues as we await spring in the Peloponnese.  It is a good reminder for us to enjoy those good days when they finally return.  We appreciate the time you've read this tale of sometimes Paradise Lost, expat version.

And among the speakers are. . .

The Scout and I will be speaking about our expat life during a 'Greece Online Workshop' February 19th, sponsored by the Live and Invest Overseas organization.  Practical advice will be provided by a number of professionals including a Greek attorney and a real estate representative.  

I know a number of you are considering expat life in Greece and you may find this event to be of interest.  For a complete rundown of the details, click the link above.  

And a big Thanks to those who've subscribed to receive my Substack articles (Jackie Humphries Smith) as well as continuing to read my occasional postings here!  Until the next time, safe travels to you all ~