In Greece ~ So, where you from?

'So, where you from?" our waiter asked as he set the cappuccinos to the side of the hand sanitizer bottle and ash tray; the ubiquitous centerpieces of outdoor tables at restaurants and cafes in Greece these days.

Coffee on Hydra island 

It is a question so routinely asked of us in our travels in Greece that we didn't even think about our answer. We are assumed to be tourists, never residents.

'We live in The Mani,. . .Peloponnisos," replied The Scout, adding, 'we are originally from Washington -- the state, that is -- in the United States.'

'Americans! I thought so!' exclaimed our server as if a mystery had just been solved. 'But you live here! I had wondered how you got into the country.'

Hydra, a Saronic island

It was a good question on his part because travelers from America aren't yet welcome in Greece or elsewhere the European Union for that matter.

The conversation took place shortly after we'd arrived on the island of Hydra (also Idra, Ydra) last week. The island had been a scheduled stop on our June 'holibob' but we were a bit too early. Hotels and restaurants there hadn't opened yet following the COVID19 prevention lockdown that kept Greece closed most of the spring.

Our home to Hydra in less than five hours

Since we can get there with a short road trip of four hours and a ferry ride of 30 minutes we decided to complete the 'holibob' with a three night stay last week on our favorite Saronic Island.

While we consider ourselves fortunate to be able to travel (and know that many of you reading this aren't yet able to do so), I must say there is a definitely a 'new normal' to it in this country, where we live as American expats.

Masks on public transportation - new normal for travel in Greece

The new normal includes the absence of tourists coming from America. The Covid19 numbers in the United States have landed it among countries on the 'not invited list' in the European Union. A mid-July review of that list, didn't change things - the list will be reviewed again on July 31st.

 As a result of that action American, Delta, Emirates and United Airlines have cancelled their summer flights linking Athens with a number of U.S. gateway cities.

No wonder our waiter was wondering how we'd managed to get in!

Our waiter explaining the fresh catch to 'the American'

The following evening at a restaurant overlooking the Saronic Gulf, the waiter serving us (pictured above) also asked, "So where you from?"  We gave the same response.  He flashed a big smile and said, 'You are the first Americans I have the pleasure of serving this year!'

View of the Saronic Gulf from the Sunset Restaurant - Hydra

So good was the meal and the setting that we returned to the restaurant the next evening. This time the waiter quipped, "Ah, I have the pleasure of serving the first Americans again."  We suggested he could count us twice - once for each visit. We all laughed but then he said, in an almost wistful tone, "Where are the Americans?"

Every table has a view it seems on Hydra

COVID19 prevention efforts have negatively impacted tourism here. Visitor numbers are down. Officials quoted in Greek media say they hope to see an upswing in August and an extended season into September and October.

Summer, especially on Greek islands, is decidedly a busy time even in times of less tourism. While there were many tourists, there were far fewer than we recall seeing during our summer sojourn to Hydra last year.

Metoxi ferry connects mainland with Hydra

The small Metoxi ferry that the we take from the Peloponnese mainland to the island was running at 30-minute intervals during a portion of the day last summer. On this trip it was running on the off-season hourly schedule. And five of those hourly runs each day had been cancelled.  We took the 10 a.m. Saturday ferry back to the mainland, had masks ready to put on until we realized we were the only two passengers on the boat.  We sat outside at the back of the boat. Two crew members were at the front. Three people were waiting to board the ferry on the mainland side.

Self distancing not a problem with fewer tourists - Hydra Island

Greek tourism folks are predicting that COVID19 is going to result in at least a 20 percent reduction of Greece's tourism revenue; a  revenue that was between 18 and 19 billion euros last year. Tourism accounts for about 20 percent of the country's GDP.

Masks are required on public transportation including high speed ferries

Greece finds itself in a delicate balancing act of opening up tourism for those many whose livelihoods depend on it while maintaining a determined approach to COVID prevention.  Just reading headlines last week we found celebratory stories about the first flights arriving at regional airports appearing next to headlines reporting spikes in the numbers of COVID cases.  Here a spike is considered going from a daily -countrywide count - of say, 24 cases to 50 or 60. It happened a few times since borders were opened and as a result, prevention measures have been stepped up. A mandate to return to wearing face masks in grocery stores was issued on Friday evening.  The populace has become a bit relaxed and it was time to tighten up again. Now, if caught not wearing a mask, we will be fined 150 euros.

Masks, I should add, are also required on public transportation, ships, planes, beauty salons, all offices and clinics providing medical services.

Just today a two-week closure of several border crossings with neighboring countries has been announced for non-essential travel. Again, a spike in numbers prompted the action.

Hydra harbor at nightfall

After I last wrote about the prevention measures taken at the Costa Navarino resort, I was asked if we were able to enjoy ourselves with such protocols in place.  The answer is a resounding, 'Yes!'  It does keep COVID19 at the front and center of awareness, but it also reminds you that prevention is being taken seriously by the Greek hospitality industry.

In other words, we have felt safe traveling in Greece.

Until next time. . .

We had plenty of time to think about travel during those long months of lock-down. One thing that became obvious was not to put off taking trips while we are able to do so.  We know how quickly opportunity can be taken away. And the headlines continue to remind us of how fluid the situation and how easily such lockdowns can be put into place, thus ending travel again.

Our thoughts are with those of you who are still traveling by armchair - we wish you well. Stay safe. Thanks for being with us today. Hope to see you back here soon! We hope you'll add a comment or send an email and let us know how life is going in your part of the world ~

Linking soon with -

Mosaic Monday
Through My Lens
Travel Tuesday
Our World Tuesday
My Corner of the World Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday

In Greece ~ The Trip Decades in the Making

The trip we took last week, one might say, has been decades in the making.

For that reason, 'The Trip' we envisioned was going to a memorable one. It was the kind you think about for months in advance, pondering which destination would be 'the most special' - giving little regard to costs or logistics.

Four decades in the making 

'The Trip' to be taken in 2020 was our 40th wedding anniversary celebration. Special was the operative word in planning it. Those big ones don't come around often and at our age you don't know how many more are in the future. So, 'the something special trip' included visions of elegant cruise ships and/or exotic destinations.

Then 2020 was ushered in by COVID-19. . .

1980

Upon reflection, maybe we should have expected such a major unexpected turn of events, as we'd had a similar jolt to our wedding plans as well.

Back in 1980 -- just weeks before our wedding -- Mount St. Helen's blew her top and buried our central Washington State town in a layer of ash. At the time questions swirled about whether or not more eruptions were coming, if we would be able to get anyone to the church with the thick layer of ash covering the town, if guests could even travel to attend the event. There was also the question of: was ash hazardous to one's health?

For a time only essential workers were allowed out -- newspaper reporters of which I was one -- were among those workers. Because of the potential  health dangers we workers wore face masks when outside as a precaution. Sounds a bit like current times, doesn't it?

Just weeks before our wedding in Yakima, Washington

Fast forward four decades: We are now American expats living in Greece. As you know from my writings this spring, Greece took swift and somewhat draconian measures to curb COVID. As the lockdown lingered, and our world shrank, our anniversary plans were reduced to hoping restaurants might re-open so we could simply go out to dinner in the village. (I've written in earlier posts about how the pandemic lockdown changed the way we look at life - and this is a good example of that!)

Restaurants were closed during lockdown - take out was 'dining out'

However, lockdown success resulted in low COVID numbers in Greece.  That fact allowed the country to start opening to travel in early June. Hotels and restaurants are slowly coming to life. Luck was with us as the luxury resort - Costa Navarino -- re-opened June 19th, nine days before our anniversary.  And that, we decided, would be the anniversary destination!

Costa Navarino - In the time of COVID

As one follows the two-lane agricultural road through villages, olive and orange groves and vineyards that make up the most western 'finger' of the Peloponnese, the idea of ending up at five-star luxury resort seems rather farfetched.  But this posh place has been a showplace in Messinia since the first guests were welcomed in 2010. It wasn't until last year that we 'discovered' this oceanside oasis.

Our route to Costa Navarino

We are still giddy over post-lockdown travel freedoms so instead of the short two-hour route, we took a meandered drive around the point.  It is an area rich in history - and even in pre-COVID times wasn't overrun with tourists. The drive takes one to Koroni on the eastern shore; a once important port for Venetians because it was on the trade route with Middle Eastern crusader kingdoms. It, and its sister city, Methoni, on the western coast were known as the 'eyes of the republic' during the centuries this area belonged to the Venetian Republic. Each town offers tourists a castle dating back to those ancient times.

Costa Navarino might be considered the area's modern day palace for pleasure set on some 300-acres overlooking the Ionian Sea. It is home to the Westin Costa Navarino and the Romanos - both participating hotels in the Marriot Bonvoy hospitality empire. We don't golf, but that doesn't keep us from enjoying the views that extend over the  resort's two golf courses.  There is a spa, two pools, a variety of restaurants - all of the sort you'd expect to find at a high-end resort. This one offers a picture-perfect golden sand beach.

Golden sand beach at Costa Navarino

We hadn't set foot inside the lobby before we were reminded that travel during COVID19 is a whole 'new normal'. Protocols (mandated by the Greek government) are strict and fines and punishments are severe for those hospitality establishments not adhering to them. We suspect many may be with us for sometime.

Social distancing - 2 meters apart throughout the resort

Social distancing reminders were visible throughout the resort beginning at the entry to the hotel.

Temperature taken and awaiting check-in

While awaiting our turn to enter the lobby, two staff members wearing gloves and face shields greeted us with warm welcome and a question, "May we take your temperature?"  Once we cleared the temperature check we found ourselves separated by plexiglass windows from reception desk clerks  (all of whom were wearing face shields and gloves). Contactless credit cards were requested. 

Contactless is the new word in travel

Contactless seems to definitely be a 'new normal' for travel. 

Take your own temperature machine - future of travel?

Our room was spacious, the large deck offered views of the sea and the place was so clean that I didn't use any of my cleaning wipes I now routinely pack these days. 

Sanitized might be the room feature of the future

Our welcome gift last year was a bag of sea salt harvested at the resort.  This year we had a gift bag of disinfectant liquid, antibacterial handwipes, face masks and information on how to reach the hotel's onsite COVID19 doctor (one of the government's mandates for large hotels). 

Our wellness welcome gift

(A bit later a bottle of wine, sterilized wine glasses and a box of the hotel brand biscuits were delivered to the room as a welcome as well.)

Hand sanitizer machines on the beach

We followed set routes throughout the resort for exit and entry, no longer just veering off to ask a quick question at the reception desk - distancing was taken most seriously. Hand sterilizers were abundant and placed throughout the resort -- including the beach!

Scout moving hair from forehead for temperature check

Costa Navarino is a gated resort so when returning from an outing we were warmly welcomed back after providing a room number -- and this year also having our temperature taken  -- then the gate was raised. 

Love in the Time of COVID-19

I have to tell you that while it felt somewhat different (and this report might make it sound horrendously different), our stay was lovely.  High end and cheerful service from staff who were masked and gloved and working in temperatures in the 90F/30C range.  Accommodations that were clean and luxurious. It might not have been among our envisioned destinations a year ago, but we couldn't have chosen a better 'special' place.

The Flame Steakhouse - Costa Navarino

About that special celebration. . .The Scout had had his heart set on a steak dinner to celebrate the day.  The Flame Steak House Restaurant in the Golf Club didn't let him down.

Celebrating 40 years of new adventures

And who would have thought that we'd be celebrating our 40 years together as expats living our Stone House on the Hill near a delightful fishing village called Agios Nikolaos in the Greek Peloponnese?! My gift from The Scout ,a fishing net with four fish - one for each decade - couldn't have been more perfect!

Next week I'll be telling you about another palace . . .that of King Nestor's. . .it is just down the road from Costa Navarino.

As always thanks for the time you've spent with us today. Stay safe and stay healthy ~

Linking soon with ~

Mosaic Monday
Through My Lens
Travel Tuesday
Our World Tuesday
My Corner of the World Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday

A Night in Nafplio

A Night in Nafplio. . .sounds rather like a movie title, doesn't it?

The land of castles and kings - Nafplio

You know. . . one of those summer escapade films starring the likes of Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn. Maybe I watched too many of those movies in my youth, but sometimes even the briefest of getaways in Greece, where we live as expats, feels as exhilarating as the storylines of those old time travel/romance films.

Nafplio streets are quiet following the spring CV lockdown

And I can tell you, it is even more exhilarating when it follows weeks of coronavirus prevention lockdown!

Palimidi fort dates back to 1715 the year of its completion

Our night in Nafplio came as part of our first post-lockdown road trip.  We'd planned to island hop through the Saronic islands near the eastern coast of the Peloponnese. But with hotels not yet open on Hydra we opted to spend a night on the mainland as we made our way home from Spetses island. And there is no more perfect a place to do that than Nafplio (naf-plee-oh).

Bougainvillea-draped pedestrian streets of Nafplio

Nafplio is simply a fairy tale setting come to life. The old town's cityscape is one of medieval castles, ancient walls, Ottoman fountains and Venetian buildings. It charmed us nearly a decade ago when we first came to the Peloponnese and it continues to cast a spell over us each time we visit.

Sunset at harborside in Nafplio

It is easy to lose yourself to its charms as you stroll its narrow streets or sit sipping coffee or wine in a cafe at the side of a square -- particularly its Syntagma Square where there is always a group of children playing soccer, it seems, no matter the time of year we visit.  Syntagma, meaning 'constitution' is a perfect place to ponder what it was like back when this ancient town was the capital of the newly liberated Hellenic Republic. That would be back in the early 1800's before Athens took over that title.

Bourtzi, centerpiece of Nafplio harbor

Nafplio has served as a seaport town since back in the Middle Ages. Legend has it that it was founded by Nafplios, son of Poseidon.  A stroll along the harbor is a must. No matter how many times we have visited, we always pause to admire the Bourtzi, a small Venetian fortress on  Agioi Theordoroi. What stories that little islet could tell!

Selections at Mediterraneo Wine Bar seemed endless

The city has a bit of something for everyone. You could easily spend several days immersed in history, visiting the Palamidi fort (reached by climbing some 900 steps up the face of the cliff or driving there) or visiting its Archaeological Museum and War History Museum. Shoppers likely will tire before visiting all the shops that line the pedestrian-friendly streets.  Old traditional Greek storefronts operate next to some of the sleekest, upscale fine dining restaurants and wine bars you could find outside Athens.

Even doors are picturesque in Nafplio

It is difficult to choose a hotel there as so many boutique, family-owned places tempt.  For those wondering, our hotel was following the strictest of coronavirus prevention mandates set forth by the Greek government:  our room key was sterilized in a special sanitation process, the room as spotless and the former serve-yourself buffet breakfast was served by a staff member.

View from our hotel room

Prior to the Coronavirus world, Nafplio was a a magnet for tourists - buses filled the parking lots and tourists filled the ancient narrow streets.  The city was pretty much empty when we visited.  (True confession:  it was nice having fewer people there.) Greece doesn't open its doors to international guests until July 1st so no telling what tourism will be like this summer. For the sake of businesses, we hope there are increased numbers.

Nafplio a photographer's paradise

We are off soon on one more road trip before the borders open. We are heading west this time to visit more Peloponnese favorites and will tell you about them in our next report.  We know that a number of you are still in varying stages of lockdown and we send our wishes to you: stay safe and stay well!

As always we thank you for the time you spend with us at TravelnWrite and a big welcome to our new readers - thanks for the wonderful emails you've sent!!

Linking soon with:

Mosaic Monday
Through My Lens
Travel Tuesday
Our World Tuesday
My Corner of the World Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday

In Greece ~ A Long Awaited Holibob

Refreshed and Renewed we are!

It is amazing what the shortest of holibobs will do for a traveler's soul after weeks of being COVID19-prevention-confined in the Greek Peloponnese.

Picturesque Spetses Island

Holibob is my new word of the week.  As I've written before, being an American expat in Greece and living among expats largely from Europe has expanded our vocabulary immensely. Case in point: holibob.

Greek ferry travel is one of our favorite means of transport

When discussing our travel plans with Julia, a British friend in the village, she exclaimed, 'You are taking a holibob!' Such is the word they use to describe a trip in which one 'bobs' from one place to another.

Saronic islands - a not to miss experience

Now, doesn't that put a new spin on our phrase 'road trip'?!?

Our holibob was planned to be a four-night getaway to two islands in the Saronic Gulf.  But as we've learned in the last few months, life's travel 'plans' are probably better referred to as travel 'hopes'.

Pine trees Greek style on this mountain pass

It is a four-hour drive from our Stone House on the Hill to the tip of the 'thumb' of the Peloponnese from which the ferry to Spetses in the Saronic Island chain sets forth.  The route includes divided four-lane toll roads and tiny winding roads through orange groves and forested mountainsides. The ferry crossing is 25 minutes each way.

After two nights on Spetses we would head to nearby Hydra (Idra). That was the plan, anyway.

Travel within Greece has been allowed for a couple of weeks with hotels, eateries, tavernas and bars  getting the go-ahead to open about the same time as travel restrictions were lifted. Tourists from outside Greece begin arriving this week so we wanted to get in a 'bob' before those from elsewhere begin arriving. Greece is moving from mandatory COVID19 testing of all arrivals to random.

Hydra island in the distance 

However, relaxing the airport testing -- along with a small  spike in cases last week -- has resulted in the national COVID prevention team (scientists and doctors advising the government) being brought back together. The government has begun imposing regional and local lockdowns  and will continue to do so, as necessary as Greece continues to reopen.

Much like I wrote in our last post about Gythio, it felt so good. . .so normal. . .to be traveling again. But there is no ignoring the fact that travel is a different animal these days. Packing a packet of disposable surface cleaners, liquid hand sanitizer, sanitizer wipes and face masks -- and using them -- does put a different feel on a getaway.

All passengers must wear masks on the ferry pictured behind me

Face masks are required to be worn by all staff who serve food and beverages. Far more places we ate and sipped at than not, were complying with the rule. Many servers wore gloves as well. Face masks are required on public transportation like trains, buses and ferries with interior seating. Our open air ferry didn't require masks. . .I might add there were about a dozen walk on passengers on each of our sailings. Self distancing wasn't a problem.

Hotel Klimis (on the left) walking distance from the ferry dock

I felt silly wiping down door handles and light switch covers at The Klimis Hotel where we stayed because our room had been sanitized and cleaned before our arrival (we were told our getting into the room could be delayed for sanitizing). Whew! The smell of disinfectant was so strong we opened the doors to the deck to air it out a bit, but felt safe in knowing that the place sparkled. And yes, I still wiped down table surfaces and other such places.

Our self-distanced deck and views from it

Hand sanitizer bottles were strategically placed in common areas of the hotel, retail stores and restaurants. It is amazing how many times you touch things with little notice to the act until you've become germophobic as I seem to be these days.

A sign of the times in Spetses

There were few tourists about the town - another plus of taking a mid-week jaunt.  It had been busy the prior three-day holiday weekend, we were told.

Serious about prevention in Greece

Tavernas, bars, restaurants and shops with the exception of a few were open.  Rules about entry were new additions to the shop windows.

Distanced and ready for diners on Spetses

It wasn't until we attempted to make reservations for two nights on nearby Hydra island that we realized how 'shut down' Greece remains.  Hotels there weren't open so we cut the holibob short and headed back to the mainland, with a new plan to spend the night in an old favorite, Nafplio.   It is another like Gythio - such a favorite that I really must tell you about it next time!

Until then we hope this finds you and yours safe and well.  Add a comment or send an email and let us know how things are in your part of the world.

Linking sometime with:

Mosaic Monday
Through My Lens
Travel Tuesday
Our World Tuesday
My Corner of the World Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday