Just a 48 Hour Greek Getaway

Sometimes even when you are an expat living in your chosen area of paradise, you need a getaway from the routine.  Even a brief change of scenery makes for a brighter attitude and a shot of energy.

A Greek getaway less than two hours from home

By the first week of November, a change of scenery from that to be had at our Stone House on the Hill in the Mani was definitely overdue:  

We'd (knock-on-wood) gotten rid of the rat who had played havoc on our car's electrical system, we'd confirmed there would be no harvest of our shriveled olive crop, we'd cleared the dozens of dead plants in my Mediterranean garden, which like the olive crop were also casualties of the summer's prolonged heat and drought. And our computer was in the repair shop. 

Good olives top, our olives bottom

It had simply been far too long since these two vagabonds had headed out on any just-for-fun getaways.

A part of the Westin lobby, Costa Navarino

Our destination was our 'go to' getaway resort located a mere 38 miles, yet a world away from our expat home in the Greek Peloponnese. Costa Navarino, a resort with four award-winning golf courses and an equal number of 5-star hotels is located on the Peloponnesian point we see from our home.  It is on that point's west side, less than two-hours' drive from our home. It is ridiculously close, so how could it have been more than two years since we last took advantage of this nearby luxe?

Golf enthusiasts in November at Navarino Hills course

Nowadays the tourist touts and jetsetter publications paint a picture of the resort as being a playground for famous super stars, a hideaway for the rich and famous.  But I can assure you, based on the several visits we've made there in the last decade, that there are far more regular folks, like us, who make up the majority of guests either seeking a quick getaway or a round or two of golf amid the swanky digs.   

A Room with a View

The resort accommodation is a mix of privately owned villas and hotels - The Mandarin Oriental, The W Hotel, Romanos, and our favorite, The Westin Hotel. Admittedly, while room rates can go off the charts in the height of summer (as has become the case throughout Greece), the end of the season rates are more affordable. 

The Westin was the first hotel we stayed at in this Greek-owned resort and habit keeps us choosing it when we return. 

The Westin bedroom and bathroom in the studio we were assigned

Two of the hotels had already closed for the season, as had many of the restaurants but there were plenty of places still open and operating. And with a Greek village just minutes away from the resort and the bustling town of Pylos a few miles away, there were plenty of choices for traditional food and drink.

Autumn in the air

We had managed to tack some errands in Kalamata on to this trip, which meant we didn't arrive at the resort until early on a Tuesday afternoon. Our room was ready and no lines at check-in. Although we didn't spend much time in the room that afternoon with all of the outdoor spaces calling out to explore.

The grounds are sprawling and are beautifully landscaped with local flora and fauna. It didn't take us long to head out for a stroll through the gardens and then ultimately, to the beach. 

Nice to see green again after this year's drought 

The resort, encompassing Navarino Bay and Navarino Dunes, has more than 1.2 million endemic shrubs of different species.  Walking through the grounds is like touring a botanical garden. Ninety percent of the land is covered with pre-existing or planted greenery.

And to keep those areas green without taking away from local water supplies, the resort has an elaborate water management system that includes water reservoirs with a capacity of just under 1.2 million liters of water for use on the development.

Decades old olive trees shad swimmers at this pool, named for them

More than 7,000 olive trees have been moved and replanted by the resort developers. The trees are prolific throughout the grounds, and I can tell you, they are being pampered compared to those outside the resort. 

Olive trees are showcased throughout the resort

We do think of them as part of Greece's national treasure, so they deserve to be well taken care of.

Ages old olive trees stand as sentries at the front entrance

We are having an incredibly beautiful autumn in the Peloponnese this year. During our stay the weather was so temperate, hovering at the low 70F's that it made sunning ourselves (wearing blue jeans and long sleeves) on the beach the perfect way to while away a couple of hours.  Other guests, clad in swimsuits, sunned and bobbed in the ocean. 

Beach bliss in November 

I think the last time we went to the beach in Greece was during our last trip to Costa Navarino. Like that time, we again had such a pleasant, kick-back afternoon! The stretch of beach we were on is a protected area of the resort as it is a breeding ground for the Carreta sea turtles.  We sipped wine in the late afternoon because the beach restaurant and bar close at sunset. . . for the sake of the turtles.

Wine on the beach - no better place to drink it

Lights are turned off so as not to disturb the turtles, who come and lay their eggs in the spring with hatching taking place in summer. The early closure though continues throughout the season to assure safety to the turtles.

Photo taken in the Costa Navarino's Resort  Nature Center

While the developers point to their sustainable practices and a focus on environment, one of my favorite things about this place is their commitment to animal welfare.  They actually have created a shelter for homeless dogs on the property and have a paid staff member coordinating volunteers and the efforts and events to get animals adopted. A visit to the on-property shelter is always a treat.

Navarino Pets - well worth a visit while at the resort

Since our last visit a new lobby display showcases those seeking a fur-ever home.  If you aren't ready to adopt one of the animals introduced on the continuous video display, there is a handy donation box just below it - so you can help at any level.  

Fresh from the fields enroute to Costa Navarino

The Peloponnese 'point' on which Costa Navarino is located is carpeted with grape vineyards, olive and orange groves. Truck gardens and orchards supply roadside stands with veggies and fruits to tempt visitors like us..

At Nestor's palace - recently restored archeological site

It is home to a number of historical sites, including nearby Nestor's Palace and the Venetian built, Methoni castle a bit further away. There's even a winery, open to the public and named after the legendary king of Pylos, Nestor, that can easily be reached from the resort.

Nestor Winery, home of Messinian inspired wines - some of our favorite

After wining and dining, resting and relaxing, we were back on the road again Thursday, heading to Kalamata for a few more errands before heading home. Sometimes even the shortest of getaways are all that is needed to rejuvenate the senses. I am sure we released a ton of endorphins between us during those 48 hours as we sure felt better after our stay!  

Of course, now I am wondering that a 'real trip' - one that encompasses a week or two - might do for these two old vagabonds.  Wouldn't you know? The Scout is already on it!

Costa Navarino sunsets are spectacular

Now back at our Stone House on the Hill, with the computer as rejuvenated as we are, I have plenty of tales to tell you in the coming weeks. Until then, how about you tell us where you've been.   Taken any getaways or longer trips? If so, tell us about them in the comments or shoot us an email. 

We enjoy your travel tales ~ 

Saving Time in a Bottle

Just when you become comfortable, maybe even complacent, change happens. 

In June the government issued new requirements for Greek residency permits for third-country expats, like us. 

The news was seismic in the expat community; as well could be the changes!

The game rules have changed: time out!

I liken it to changing the game rules once play has started. We are now on the field in the timeout period waiting for the referee to clarify the new rules of play so the game can begin again. 

And we are wondering if we still qualify as players or if we'll be booted.

Greek Game Changer

A seismic change in residency permit requirements

After nearly a decade of staticity, Greece's residency permit was recently overhauled.  It was lengthened from two to three years. The name changed from FIP (Financially Independent Persons) permit to the 'Residence Permit for third-country Nationals with Sufficient Resources'. 

But the most riveting change is the increase in the amount of income you must have to live in Greece.  

The joy in getting that plastic card, the permit, that lets us live in Greece

The monthly income requirement for individuals has nearly doubled, going from 2,000 to 3,500 euros ($3,824US). Two people, filing as a family, will be required to have 4,200 euros ($4,584US).  Because we originally applied as individuals we will need to show 7,000 euros a month in income.

The alternative to the increased monthly income is having stash of 72,000 euros ($78,663US) deposited in a Greek bank account (that's up from 48,000 euros or $45,089US). 

Mid-morning: tellers closed their windows despite waiting customers

The amounts are the only thing clearly defined in the new requirements. And for many expats and expat wannabes, the increases alone could put expat life out of reach. 

For others who could meet the income requirements, it will be a matter of how the proof of income is defined that determines whether or not they qualify. Must it be strictly a pension payment or will passive income, earned on investments, count? 

Greek banks aren't known for their customer service.  So that higher amount to have on deposit isn't a warm and fuzzy option for those of us who've dealt with them. Will savings accounts and investments not in Greek banks count toward the requirement?

'What if' and other questions. . .

We, and most of our American expat friends in the village, are in the midst of the permit renewal process. Applications and documentation for the previous requirements were submitted and accepted by the authorities months ago. Now we wonder if we will be required to start over, file addendums, or get grandfathered in (most unlikely of the scenarios).  

Unsettled times

Expat social get-togethers in recent weeks include a conversation or two on the 'have you heard anything about the permits?'  And occasionally we touch on - the proverbial elephant in the room - 'What if we don't qualify?'  

Needless to say, it has made for a somewhat unsettled summer in the third country expat community. (A 'third country national' is anyone who hails from a country outside Greece or the European Union). We've all had moments in which we ponder our vaguely uncertain futures. And we've all been a bit more reflective on our time here. So much so, that I've decided a song from my teenage years could be the theme song for the summer of 2024. . .

 Saving Time in a Bottle

If I could make days (in Greece) last forever. . .

Back in 1973 singer-songwriter Jim Croce sang a love song about making days last forever, making wishes come true and saving time in a bottle.  Back then, as teenagers, it seemed like days did last forever as we awaited adulthood. Why the need to bottle it? We were far too busy marking time to think about saving it. 

If I could make days last forever

If words could make wishes come true

I'd save every day like a treasure, and then

Again, I would spend them with you

I'd save every day (in the village) like a treasure. . .

Fast forward a half century and the song's lyrics are hitting home loud and clear this summer as a love song for expat life in Greece. I would fill my bottle with. . .

If I could save time in a bottle

The first thing that I'd like to do

Is to save every day 'til eternity passes away

Just to spend them with you

. . .Time spent watching summer sunsets. . .

I'd save summer sunsets and winter storms

. . . and winter storms. . .

The village parking lot after a winter storm

Time spent traveling the backroads. . .

Backroad adventures

. . .even time spent in traffic jams. . .

Local traffic jam

Time spent in the olive grove. . .

My friend Mary and I harvest olives

. . .from harvesting in October. . .

Princess and Maggie in the olive grove

. . . to walking amid wildflowers in March, exploring with my cats. . .

The Scout and our friend Captain Antonis

Time spent with friends - both Greek and expats from other lands. . .

Fellow Americans, friends, who we'd never have met in America

 and even fellow Americans whom we'd never have known back in the States. . .

House projects included, installing a new hot water tank

Times spent making improvements to our Stone House on the Hill . . . 

Enjoying our Stone House on the Hill

. . .and times spent enjoying it. . .

                                                              But there never seems to be enough time

                                                      To do the things you want to do once you find them. . .

Make the time ~ find the time ~ enjoy

Summer's end is fast approaching, and as with every season it does seem we never have enough time to do everything we want to do.  One thing is for sure this year, we are approaching all things with a bit more reflection and appreciation.

Thanks for the time you've spent with us today and to those of you who've followed the residency journey for as long as we've been on it: your continuing interest and support is most appreciated!  

Enjoy your travels and your everyday adventures. Until next time ~

With Travel, Never Say Never

 When it comes to travel, we should 'never say never'.  We know that now.

In fact, I reminded myself of that a couple weeks ago in Santorini while having our photo taken by seat mates in a cable car that was dangling above a cliffside whisking us down - way down - to our cruise ship.

Santorini cable car to cruise ship port

'We'd never take a cruise through the Greek islands,' we've adamantly proclaimed for years, usually adding, 'and certainly never in summer!' 

Yet there we were on Santorini, our first port of call on a weeklong cruise through Greece - in summer! Never say never!

In a cable car off a sheer cliff in Santorini.

While we love cruising, we have long maintained that in order to get the real flavor of Greece -- nightlife in a village, driving those narrow winding roads that lead through small hamlets, or waiting for sheep or goats who have roadway priority -- you need more time than afforded on a cruise ship tour. You need to spend days and nights exploring this adopted country of ours.  

As for traveling in Greece in summer: no matter the mode of transport, it can bring on heat stroke and/or agoraphobia, a fear of crowds.

But sometimes reality and circumstances can challenge one's mantras about travel, which isn't necessarily a bad thing.  

Blue and white of Greece's Santorini

Travel reality for us right now is limited to Greece. As expats who've reapplied for residency permit renewal, we can no longer travel in most of Europe without risk of fines and/or deportation for overstaying our time in the Schengen Zone. 

So, we'll be 'Doin' Greece' for a while. The good news is, that there is plenty of Greece remaining for us 'to do'. 

The Scout had been working on some travel options for June, and it didn't take long to conclude that a cruise would cover more territory and be as cost-effective and more time-efficient than traveling by ferry, staying in hotels, and eating out. 

Our room with a view - Celebrity Infinity

That's why we found ourselves setting sail on the Celebrity Infinity two weeks ago. The trip began with an overnight stay in Athens. It is good to get a taste of the big city after months of living in the rural Peloponnese, where we make our expat home.  

[Travel tip: We used an app, Free Now, to nab a taxi to the port the next morning - it worked like a charm -- establishing the rate and route upfront while bringing a driver within minutes. We recommend it highly.]

Athens' nightlife is vibrant

The ship would visit Santorini and Mykonos islands, as well as cities Thessaloniki and Kavala on the country's northeastern coast. One day was spent in Turkey, (Kusadasi, gateway to Ephesus). Turkey is not a Schengen country so we could travel there. Another day was a sea day - a mesmerizing way to spend a day.

Cruising in Greece

Access to and from the ship, cable car (on the left) or trail

Our first port of call was the Cyclades Island of Santorini, the postcard perfect poster child for Greek tourism. It has become such a popular destination that officials in 2018 began limiting the daily numbers of cruise ship visitors to 8,000. On the day we visited four cruise ships brought 7,000 visitors. Even with that number we can attest to the need for limits!

A single bus load of cruise passengers heading to Oia.

The cruise ship port offers three ways to access the island:  take a ship's tour so you can tender to the larger ferry port with vehicle access, or you go up that aforementioned cliff on foot or use the cable car. Donkeys were available, but thankfully, were not being hired often. We were warned in advance that cable car waits could reach a couple of hours in both directions.  

We opted for a ship's tour that left early and got us back before the brunt of cruisers came ashore.  We had no wait coming back in the cable car, but by early afternoon the lines were already endlessly long waiting to go up.  Temperatures in the high 80's discouraged many from tackling the cliffside stairway, which is shared with the donkeys and their poo. 

Waiting to get near that blue domed church in the distance

It has been more than a decade since we visited this island with a year-round population of about 15,500 residents and 40 taxis. Yet, it hosts about two million visitors a year.  It might be another decade before we go back but it was interesting to see it again, if even for a few hours.

Whitewashed, brightly trimmed home in Mykonos

Mykonos another insanely popular island in the Cyclades group, was our last port of call. While Santorini draws hordes of tourists, Mykonos is a magnet for the world's rich and famous. We were there a week before the Princess of Morocco arrived. Media report that a huge motorcade transported her and her son from the island's airport to the villa they'd rented. Ten of the vehicles carried their luggage.  She reportedly didn't like the way the villa was furnished, so she had furnishings, and decor flown in from Morocco - it took three trucks to deliver those items later.  

Street scene Mykonos Town

In comparison our island arrival was pretty incognito.  Only two ships were in port -- a new port has been built outside Mykonos Town since we were last there. A shuttle bus transported those going ashore independently as we were to the old port. From there, we walked into town following its labyrinth of streets - originally designed to confuse 18th century pirates and still does a good job confusing day-tripping tourists.

Meeting up with friends is a plus of travel

Our stop here included a visit with fellow Americans Jeffrey Siger and his wife Barbara Zilly. I've mentioned him before on TravelnWrite: he left his law practice in New York and came to Mykonos to write whodunnits set in various Greek locales.  His books - there are 15 now - are as much a travel guide as they are crime fiction. In fact, we met on a Greek travel social media site more than a decade ago when he offered us some travel suggestions for the Peloponnese as he'd just written a book (Sons of Sparta) set there.

Port of Thessaloniki as the sun sets

Our stops in Thessaloniki and Kavala were the destination highpoints of the cruise for us. We've vowed to return to both cities, and I'll tell you more about them in a future post.  

Thessalonik's main square opens to the sea

Thessaloniki, Greece's second largest city, is about an hour's flight from Kalamata, the airport serving our area of Greece. It was great fun arriving and departing by ship as it is located on the Thermaic Gulf tucked away in a corner of the Aegean Sea. Our ship docked at its port, so close to the city center that we got around without need of tours or taxis.  It is a vibrant city known for its festivals, events, culture and cutting-edge culinary arts.

City Hall Kavala

Kavala, just to its east, on the Bay of Kavala, is the principal seaport of eastern Macedonia. A city of some 70,000 that is filled with picturesque neighborhoods and historic sites.

Kusadasi, Turkey 

Kusadasi, Turkey will long be remembered for its heat - high 90F's/30C's - and its gauntlet of shopkeepers all wanting to sell me a leather coat. "Hey, lady, come try on. You want a leather coat from my shop." (It made me sweat just typing that memory.) And no, I didn't try on nor buy a leather coat!

Were we right or wrong?

Captivating sea scenes a favorite part of cruising

By week's end, we were in agreement that it had been an enjoyable cruise filled with pleasant moments and destinations that call out for a return visit.  We still think Greece needs to be experienced with longer stays than a cruise stop affords.  

The weather was indeed hot - record breaking hot in June - and impacted our experience. Summer is not the time to visit Greece. The heat and high winds in a couple of ports prompted us and many fellow passengers to cut shore exploration short. It simply wasn't pleasant to be outside. Spring and fall are beautiful times to explore Greece for those who can schedule travel then.

The tourist numbers were high, but not as bad as we had expected them to be. The worst congestion was on Santorini. We may have to visit it again on some November getaway.

Heading back to the cruise ship 

It was a good reminder that saying 'never' to something we've never tried, could cost us some great travel moments.  So, with a lot of Greece left to explore, we can only wonder what is up next!  Have you ever said 'never' to a travel experience then tried it? Tell us about it in the comments below or shoot us an email.

We thank you for the time you spent with us today and say welcome to our new subscribers!  We will be back with tales of expat life soon. In the meantime, safe travels to you and yours~