Saturday, September 8, 2012

Travel Tales: ‘La Tuna’ solves that Seville Mystery

DCVegasSeville2011 164It was late one night in Seville, Spain. The bar filled with robed musicians. . . from where they came, their reason for being there, a mystery to us. . .

Two weeks ago I wrote about searching for that elusive Spanish ‘duende’the  devilish Earth Spirit that captures  -- if you are lucky -- the souls of both performers and audience members with riveting emotion. (Click the blue link to read the original post.)  We found it among a group of musicians we'd happened upon who seemed as mysterious to us as the 'duende' itself . . .



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I asked if you’d had similar experiences. Your response was fabulous:

Heather at Lost in Provence wrote that a similar concept exists in Bali.  Called ‘Ngayah’, is applies to more than the just the arts.

Inka at GlamourGranny Travels said while in Galicia she “went in search of ‘morina’ that atavistic longing of the Galegos for their ‘tierra’.”

And then my blogosphere friend from Jamaica Marcia Mayne at Inside Journeys wrote that it had sparked a memory for her; of a similar experience in Spain:

“We just happened on it in a restaurant. There were maybe 4-6 guys playing various instruments, a bucket or vat of sangria that we kept drinking from and singing along.

I remember that it was so much fun, we stayed until the restaurant closed around 1 a.m. or so. Even now, some 20-30 years later, I can feel the warmth, the camaraderie of that evening. We told our professor -- we were in Spain to study Spanish - and I remember him telling us a bit of the history of the Tuna but from the link you sent, I see it's been around for 700 years - impressive! I doubt we knew then that we were part of something so quintessentially Spanish.

I hadn't thought of the Tuna for a long time. In fact, the name was on the tip of my tongue as I wrote my comment. I wasn't sure I'd remember but just before I finished, it came to me and I decided to Google it.”

Marcia’s Google search solved our late night Seville mystery. Here’s one of many videos on You Tube of . . .yes, indeed. . .La Tuna. 

Like modern-day pen pals, Marcia and I began sending each other information about La Tuna and Lorca, the Spanish poet I quoted in the first post. One find was a web article that explains these troubadours have been around since 1215, the time of King Alfonso. 

DCVegasSeville2011 253The members were university students who in the beginning used these traveling performances to pay for their education; today it is an activity steeped in history and keeps alive the tradition of the medieval minstrels.







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"The duende….Where is the duende?

Through the empty archway a wind of the spirit enters, blowing insistently over the heads of the dead, in search of new landscapes and unknown accents: a wind with the odor of a child’s saliva, crushed grass, and medusa’s veil, announcing the endless baptism of freshly created things."
--Federico Garcia Lorca

Thanks to Marcia at Inside Journeys for use of her photo and content used in this post.  Hope you'll come back on Monday to see whereTravelnWrite will be Meandering to then. . .

Thursday, September 6, 2012

TPThursday: A Journey to Joseph, Oregon

Our summer road trip through Eastern Washington took us into Northeastern Oregon on State Road 129S. Signs along the way told us we were following the  “Old Nez Perce Trail”.

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The paved twisting, turning roadway clings to the hillsides as it winds through the Grande Ronde Valley and over a river of the same name.  Our route climbed to the summit of Wallowa Mountain, (4,693 elevation) and led us past  the Joseph Canyon Overlook . (A stop here’s a must for spectacular views and a bit of Nez Perce Indian history as well.)

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Our destination was Wallowa Lake, a couple miles beyond the town of  Joseph, Oregon,  population 967, named for Chief Joseph, leader of the Wallowa band of Pacific Northwest Nez Perce Indian Tribe.

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Born in 1785 and died in 1871 (the marker is incorrect), Joseph the Elder is buried at the north end of Wallowa Lake. The burial site is next to the 62-acre day-use Iwetemlaykin State Heritage Site.

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Joseph is  an eclectic mix of Old West and Arts Haven, and the last town before the road dead-ends at this five-mile long, one mile wide, 283-feet deep Wallowa Lake.

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Joseph is home to numerous art galleries and Wallowa County’s first arts foundry.

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There are many Bed and Breakfasts in town and other lodging nearby, but the only motel within its city limits was built by Walter Brennan, (1894-1974) an Academy-Award winning actor who owned a ranch in the area.

And eateries galore; especially if you want a Western-style meal (think hearty chuck wagon stick-to-your-ribs style meal.) 

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But our two favorites don’t have Western menus. We munch tapas and sip wine on the front deck of Calderas enjoying the mountain views. And a trip isn’t complete without a piece of home-made pie or an old-fashioned milk-shake at Mad Mary and Co. Soda Shop.

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From any street in town there are spectacular views of the Wallowa Mountains.

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If You Go: 


Map picture

Getting there:
 There are several ways to reach Joseph and Wallowa Lake that are more mainstream than the route we took.  (Our route began in Asotin, Washington just south of Lewiston on the map above – a road to small to show on this Bing map).

 
From Portland: It’s just over a six hour drive of 322 miles, 519 km.  Oregon’s Highway 82 from Highway 395 winds through Joseph before dead-ending at Wallowa Lake. 

You can link up with the Hell’s Canyon Byway (Highway 350) just a few miles from Joseph – it’s a spectacular 218-mile stretch of highway.

Hiking: The Wallowa Mountains are considered by many to be Oregon’s best hiking venue.  For a sample of hikes, click here.

Accommodations/Eateries: The Chamber of Commerce website will get you here and settled in quite nicely!

It's Travel Photo Thursday, so head on over to Budget Travelers Sandbox for more travel photos and trip ideas.

Sunday, September 2, 2012

Monday Meanderings: Three Travel Memories

Long after the purchased souvenirs are forgotten, the memories ~  those tidbits tucked away in the heart and mind ~ keep our travels alive.

Today’s post is part of a ‘blogosphere relay’ sponsored by Low Cost Holidays. Our invitation to join the team by writing about three favorite travel memories came from Marcia at Inside Journeys.

Sounded simple at first, but whoa! Think about your own travels . . .ever tried narrowing them to three favorites?  Here goes:

The First Trip
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My parents didn't travel so neither did this only child; well, we did made an annual 300-mile-road trip to overnight at my grandmother’s house once, maybe twice, a year.

kirkland 030So it wasn’t until October 1979 when I was 26 that I took my first ‘real’ trip. I flew from Seattle to Honolulu to rendezvous with a girlfriend, then working for a newspaper in Guam.

kirkland 031Ours wasn’t a high end resort stay – my half of the hotel room was $27 a night, we got around by using the (still excellent) public bus system and our big splurge was attending the luau at The Royal Hawaiian Hotel.  It was a blast!

(We didn’t know each other then, but Joel was about the same time visiting this island paradise with one of his buddies,staying in similar economy accommodations, I might add.)

I’ll never forget my first glimpse of Diamond Head, the sound of palm fronds rustling in the breeze, the sand, the sun, and the sea.  I decided that if Hawaii was that fantastic, there just might be other wonders out there in the world to discover. . .

Greece
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I’d been dreaming of those windmills of Greece since at age 9 I saw the Walt Disney movie set in Greece, “The Moon Spinners” starring Hayley Mills and Eli Wallach.  But back then, the thought of ever seeing Greece was as remote for me as heading to the moon. 

0005540-R2-010-3AFour years ago I finally saw those real-life windmills on Mykonos, the setting as magical as the movie had portrayed it.

0006100-R1-013-5What we discovered on that trip as we rode ferries through the Cycladic Islands: – Syros, Naxos, Paros and Mykonos -- was that we wanted more. More islands,
more time there,
more discoveries.

We continued our travels in Greece expanding our explorations and becoming more captivated with each visit.



The Cruise Without Clothes

We were known as “The Seattle people without clothes” on that Silversea cruise in 2004, a round-trip from Venice with stops in Croatia, Montenegro and Greece.

Huskies 019Unlike the way I’ve packed since that trip (with a change of clothes in the carry-on), we had only what we’d worn on the plane. (Photo: my ‘travel look’ leaving Venice and for several days thereafter.)

Being assured by British Air that the suitcase was on its way we didn’t worry about buying replacements.  

It was. It arrived in Venice . . .an hour after we sailed. It then went back to London, and visited Paris and Athens before arriving in Corfu on the fifth day of our eight-day cruise.  But believing it would be at the ‘next port’ we limited replacement clothes to a pair of sandals and a canvas skirt for me and a shirt for Joel.

Huskies 020Despite being 'clothes-less from Seattle' that cruise remains one of our favorite trips. It had fabulous ports of call and supportive and sympathetic fellow cruisers who offered to loan us clothes and then applauded us when we finally appeared on our wind-swept deck as we sailed from Corfu looking like we did in this photo.


With that I am passing the blogger relay baton to Daniel at The World of Deej. You can follow the relay on Twitter at #TeamBLUE or #BloggerRelay.



What are your travel memories? Care to share them? Leave a comment below or on our Facebook TravelnWrite page.

Saturday, September 1, 2012

WA Weekend: Kirkland ~ Where the Livin’ is Lakeside

Even those of us lucky enough to live in Kirkland, just across Lake Washington from Seattle, sometimes take this Pacific Northwest gem for granted.  Kirkland should be the poster child for lakeside living and here are some reasons why:

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1. Waterfront Parks:  Take a stroll along the mile-long stretch of Lake Washington Blvd. from Carillon Point to downtown Kirkland to explore the city’s many waterfront parks. Open free of charge to the public, they are great places for picnics, sunbathing or just reading a book.  (Winter storm watching is also fun from these vantage points.) For those not content to sit around, rent a paddle board or join a game of volleyball.

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 Marina Park, in the photo below, is a popular place for kids who can wade into the shallow water along its crescent-shaped beach, while  dogs chase out into the deeper waters to retrieve sticks and balls and pesky water fowl angle for a handouts. It’s also center stage for the town’s many festivals.

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2. Get out on Lake Washington: If you want to really experience the water. . .

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but you don’t have a boat to tie up at Marina Park’s public dock, don’t despair because.  .  .

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Argosy Cruises (800-642-7816, www.argosycruises.com) has got you covered. The tour boat departs from the Kirkland Dock at Marina Park for a 1.5 hour cruise that – on a sunny day – will provide stunning views of Mt. Rainier, University of Washington’s Husky Stadium and takes you past the waterfront homes of the rich and famous, like Bill Gates’ place. Reservations are recommended.  Schedule and prices can be found at the web site listed above.

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(BTW, these photos are should dispel the rumor that it ‘always rains in Seattle’. Not so!)

If You Visit: 

Map picture

The fresh-water Lake Washington at 20-miles long and reaching a depth of 214-feet is the second largest lake in Washington State, just behind the 55-mile long Lake Chelan.

When a day at the lake comes to an end, try out some of the many eateries that dot the shoreline or are clustered in the downtown area, easy walking distance from the water.

Sip some Washington wine (we’d recommend The Grape Choice a wine merchant with its kid and dog friendly sipping area near Marina Park).

Spend a night or two  at either of the town’s luxury hotels: The Woodmark Hotel on the lake at Carillon Point and The Heathman Hotel in the downtown, two blocks from Marina Park.

For more information: Click on:  Explore Kirkland.

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Wednesday, August 29, 2012

TPThursday: Spain’s “La Fiesta Brava”

Today in History, a regular feature in the Seattle Times, began Tuesday with:

“1947: Legendary bull fighter Manolete died after being gored during a fight in Linares, Spain; he was 30.”


Bullfighting, ‘la fiesta brava’ ; the centuries old cultural icon of Spain is one of those ‘love it or hate it’ topics these days among tourists and locals alike. But still it is interesting that 65 years later, the death of  Spain’s famed young matador, Manuel Laureano Rodrigues Sanchez, -- better known as Manolete* – is still worthy of note on an international scale.

Although we spent several weeks in Spain last year, we didn’t  attend a bullfight; not as a political statement, but out of a desire not to watch an animal – or perhaps human -  be killed. 

But that isn’t to say we weren’t fascinated by the importance of the bullfight to this country’s culture and history. After all, the first recorded bullfight in Spain was in 711 AD at the crowning of King Alfonso VIII.

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Our stay in Madrid was during its May Fiesta de San Isidro. A highlight of the many celebrations the fiesta encompasses are the bullfights in its Plaza de Toros Monumental de Las Ventas – one of the largest bullfight rings in the world.

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Bullfights, or corridas, take place almost daily during the festival and many were televised for the enjoyment of the masses, much like football and baseball games in the United States and soccer (futbol) in Europe.
(Look closely at the two photos above and you’ll  see I photographed a television screen.)

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I photographed this sign in Madrid promoting toreras (female bullfighters)  because I thought it was something new. Silly me, they’ve been around for centuries  -- yes, centuries -- I’ve since learned.  Even the famed Manolete shared billing with a female during a  1930’s bullfight according to one internet account.

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In Seville we joined a tour group visit of  the famed Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza (Paseo de Cristobal Colon 12, www.realmaestranza.com) Tickets for the tours can be purchased at the box office there.

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This 14,000 seat edifice is one of the largest in Spain and hosts fights every Sunday from Easter Sunday to early October.

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Our multi-lingual tour guide explained the history and the procedural aspects of bullfighting to the handful of people on the tour. The tour concluded with a stop in  the on-site bullfighting museum.

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The museum is a walk through the corridos history– walls filled with paintings, sculptures as pictured above, the outfits and equipment worn by some of the more famous bull fighters as well as a tribute to the more famous bulls as well.

We spotted one of the most clever pieces of street art we’ve seen on our travels while in Madrid. It seemed the perfect photo to end this Travel Photo Thursday post:

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A couple of notes about bullfighting in Spain:
Barcelona’s leaders voted to end that city’s 600 year tradition of bullfights; its last bullfight was held  in September 2011. The first recorded bullfight there was in 1387. 

*Manolete, was considered by some to be Spain’s greatest bullfighter.  A book by Barnaby Conrad, “The Death of Manolete” has just been republished. Conrad also produced a You Tube video called The Day Manolete Was Killed.

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Monday, August 27, 2012

Monday Meanderings: A Second Helping of Bologna

The night we spent in Bologna, Italy as part of a return to Seattle from Venice a few years ago wasn’t enough. 

The snippet of a taste we had – Roman ruins, great food and wine, architecture – was enough to draw us back this fall for a ‘full meal deal’ taste of this gourmand land known for its stuffed pastas and 'Bolognese' sauce. 

We’ve extended our ‘land-time’ prior to the cruise from Rome which allows a visit to Bologna. After successfully changing our frequent-flier mile airline seats, The Scout (that’s Joel) went to work on finding accommodations there.

An apartment named Cassiopea, in central Bologna, won out over the dozens of other options he perused.  Joel was taken with the more than 40 reviews singing its praises and I was sold when this photo came up as part of the information:


A flower trimmed deck for morning espresso and afternoon wine will sell me on a place every time.  We’ve booked this  little Italian ‘home away from home’ on a quiet side street with a view to the hills beyond town for four nights.


One of the previous guests wrote that the La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese cooking school is nearby and an afternoon lesson and tasting there shouldn’t be missed. Others wrote about places to visit and people watching in the piazza each night.  Will we have time to fit it all in?

The photos in this post are courtesy of the apartment owners/hosts, Anna Rita and Piero.  I’m not showing you all the apartment views yet, but those of you who know what animal lovers we are, will understand why the second photo --  after the one of the deck -- to catch my eye was this one:


Portraits with cats and dogs line the walls. We've learned through our email exchange since booking the apartment that these works are Anna Rita’s.  A quick visit to her web site shows she’s an artist who loves animals as much as we do.  If you want to see more of the art (or videos of her furry ones) just follow this link:  http://www.annaritadallolio.it

One of the best benefits of this type of rental is getting to know real people. On the flip side, renting any place – hotel or apartment – does requires a somewhat moderate leap of faith; you hope photos and reviews are truthful. In the case of Cassiopea the reviews not only sing praises of the place but of the people as well.

One guest proclaimed, “It was like staying with the most wonderful cousin you could ever have.” And in my mind that said a lot. I suspect that our stay in Cassiopea will only make us want another – bigger -- serving of Bologna the next time!

If You Go:

We found Cassiopea on  Vacation Rental By Owner where deposit and payment is accomplished using Pay Pal.  It is also listed on the French-based site, Homelidays, or on Perfect Places.  

Bologna is about 2.5 hours from Rome and a half hour from Florence by fast train. For more information visit the city's user-friendly website:  Bologna Welcome.


Map picture

Now that you know we’ll be in Bologna, do you have some recommendations for us?  What shouldn’t we miss while there?

Saturday, August 25, 2012

WAWeekend: Breakfast Thrills at Blueberry Hills

ChelanManson 013While ‘thrills’ might be a tad bit dramatic for our favorite breakfast stop east of Washington State’s Cascade Mountains, it is a place not to be missed.  (And get there early or prepare for lines like this one!)

The quality -- and quantity -- of food, the views and its location, just outside Manson on Lake Chelan put Blueberry Hills on our recommended list and keep it there year after year.


ChelanManson 006Set back a couple miles from the lake shore and surrounded by orchards and vineyards, this eatery overlooking 10 acres of some 3,000 blueberry bushes, packs them in each morning come rain or shine.






ChelanManson 008Arrive early to nab a table on the outside deck in summer months at this family-owned operation.  Sitting there, you can watch others in the ‘you pick’ field or enjoy the view of  the area’s well-known, Slide Ridge, pictured here.






ChelanManson 011 And take note dog lovers:  they’ve got a special gate on the deck, just for four-legged furry ones.

Owners Roger and Linda Sorensen converted the family’s homestead and apple orchard to blueberries in 1999.  They’d originally planned to operate a fruit stand, but one thing led to another and the restaurant serving ‘down home scratch country cooking’ evolved.


ChelanManson 004You'll serve yourself beverages here and pick up your flatware as well. And then – if you didn’t nab an outside table, you settle in at a table amid a most eclectic collection of memorabilia to await the arrival of the food you ordered at the counter when you arrived.






ChelanManson 015Finally, when you reluctantly push yourself away from the table (some chairs have had rollers added to ease that effort), don't forget to buy a piece of berry pie (or a whole one) to take with you or, in season, the berries themselves.








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If you go: 
Blueberry Hills is at 1315 Washington Street, Manson, 98831, 509-687-2329, www.wildaboutberries.com
Overnight accommodations are available both in nearby Manson, or Chelan just a bit further away.  For lodging information contact the Lake Chelan Visitors Center.



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