Tuesday, March 31, 2020

In The Mani ~ Mundane Tinged with Magic


Our first week of our Greek government-enforced self-isolation, self-distancing, self-protection - whatever name you want to call it -- has come to a close in The Mani.


Our village Agios Nikolaos last year 


The Mani is that slice of the rural Peloponnese we've called our 'other home' for the last two years.  It is that rural area where we focus on olive crops and fishing most of the year and brace for the onslaught of tourists that fill our villages and clog our streets during the warm weather's 'high season'.


High Season when tourists filled our village - 2019 

This year we realize as the high season is fast approaching, that it may actually be one of the lowest ever. Or maybe it will be back to normal. That is one of the more unsettling things about this time in Greece - not knowing what to expect of our future. Or when life might return to the 'old normal'. I suspect the same could be said for many places in the world and if  one were to spend too much time pondering those questions I would likely be writing of madness, not magic.

The fishing fleet last fall - Agios Nikolaos

I am happy to report that there are no signs of madness here. Our friends and neighbors - both Greeks and expats -- are carrying on as normally as one can when the world is slightly askew. The olive groves are being tended just as they always are this time of year. And a few fishing boats are still setting forth daily just as dusk arrives - just as they have always done. Not the usual fleet, mind you, as restaurants, tavernas, and cafes for the most part remain closed.

Going out for a glass of wine in this 'new world'

On the surface this may all sound rather mundane. Especially when I tell you that we still have toilet paper for sale and there are no lines forming at our grocery stores. In fact, a grocery in a neighboring village is offering home delivery to those who can't or prefer not to leave their homes. A few tavernas and cafes stay open despite the diminished business, offering only take out food and drink.

Going out for a glass of wine and dinner has taken on a new look as we sip wine from a plastic glass while waiting for the food to be prepared and packaged for home. Of course we stand two meters from each other while waiting. You might say mundane, tinged with magic.

Hiking one of the old kalderimi's (roads) that once linked villages


The 'lockdown' has been easy to comply with: prior to leaving our home, we text the government our intended destination (grocery store) or reason (exercise), our name and our address. In return we get an approval text - a Greek word that basically means 'movement'.  It hasn't been that taxing a task. . .it just takes a bit to remember to do it. But then we don't use it very often.  A trip to the grocery store once or twice a week. . .or to take out food or drink . . .or to go for a walk or hike.  Some days go past and we realize we've not been outside our garden's gate.

It appears our two-week 'lock down' will now extend past Greek Easter, April 19th.

In Greece Easter is a big deal. It is when city folks return to their family's roots and celebrate the holiday in small villages in the mainland and on the islands. Villages and islands that aren't equipped to handle a potential wave of COVID-19. The government has extended the lockdown and said no travel. No gatherings. And it is probably a pretty good idea.

Our olive grove at The Stone House on the Hill


Greece is currently holding the line on COVID-19. New cases are announced daily, hospitalizations and death statistics continue to grow. But more siga, siga, (slowly, slowly), here in comparison to neighboring countries like Spain and Italy. We hope to keep those numbers low and slow!

Thanks to FB friends who've planted the idea, I've come to think of this 'lock down' as 'me time' or 'found time'. We remarked yesterday at how fast the days go by. Spring is definitely here with those mundane but magical garden and grove chores -- weeding, planting, cutting -- to do.

As I began writing today I couldn't help but notice my red and white Martis peeking out from my shirt sleeve.  I've worn it since the first of March, as is tradition here.

This bracelet may have magic but it certainly has memories

These little woven or braided bracelets are made of yarn or thread; their name Martis is March in Greek. They are worn to welcome Spring. According to folklore they also serve to keep us from getting sunburned in the spring sun. The red, they say,  is for rosy cheeks and white for fair skin.

In theory we take them off on March 31st, today in Greece. And while I am not superstitious, and don't know if its protective qualities are really working, in practice I plan to keep wearing it. It will remind me of a strange mundane time in The Mani that was tinged with just a bit of magic.

We hope you and yours continue to be well and safe. Our wishes to you and as always thanks for being with us.  We'd love to keep up with you and your world, so add a comment or send an email!

Linking this week with:

Mosaic Monday
Through My Lens
Travel Tuesday
Our World Tuesday
My Corner of the World Wednesday
Wordless Wednesday



20 comments:

  1. We continue to enjoy your reports, Jackie. It's interesting to know how the other half of the world is dealing with this. Here, the county council has ordered all tourist accommodations closed. The "You're Not Welcome" mat is officially out in Washington's tourist-dependent San Juan Islands.
    Finding time for little projects you've been putting off is a good way to cope, I'm finding. Stay safe and stay sane!

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    1. And we are enjoying yours - as well as remarking on how remarkably similar our lives are despite the distance between us. You two stay safe and well and keep those blog posts coming!

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  2. So great to hear from you today Jackie and to read here that life in your corner of Greece is going on much the same, except for the social distancing rules etc. Our new normal is so far from what I could have imagined at the beginning of the year when Australia was suffering from the catastrophic bushfires. What a shocking year it is. However it is a great time to take stock, to be still, to breathe and enjoy the beauty around us and those we hold dear. Take care and enjoy summer without crowds in Greece!

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    1. And it is so good to hear from you and read of your 'new normal'. . .it is amazing how quickly life turned upside down, isn't it? And from social media posts I am seeing what creatures of habit we have all become -- this is definitely shaking things up a bit and I hope that I come through it as having become a bit more wise about myself and the way in which I interact with others and my world in general. Take care, keep the posts coming! xx

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  3. Another sensitive and beautiful essay about this unusual time in our life in Greece. Our friends in Hawaii, where tourism is essential in ther economy as well are in shock about the real closure of the the industry there. Our son and family live very near Kirkland and are experiencing the epidemic in one of the US hotspots. My sister in Hong Kong is describing the current increase in cases from people who have been returning from abroad and the renewed measures to contain the spread there. In Hawaii we use the phrase ‘Lucky we live Hawaii’ as a reminder of how good it is that we have our home there. For us now we say ‘. Lucky we live in the Mani’ and are thankful for the community of people we count as friends here. Eventually this will pass and we will remember the time as a chance to focus on being grateful for simple things. Love your writing❤️����

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    1. MJ so glad you enjoyed this. You have nailed it with your comment, 'we will remember the time as a chance to focus on being grateful for the simple things'. Hope to at least pass you soon somewhere in the village! xx

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  4. We try to keep our outings to twice weekly here, and you can not venture too far for groceries. Interesting times we live in right now. All we can do is hope this passes soon and life can restart, hopefully a little kinder and a little bit more sense towards others and the planet. Keep safe :-). Urrghh... I hate your comment thing cos it hates me :-(. Kemkem

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    1. It is interesting times, isn't it? How interesting to be living during a pandemic -- I've read about those from history and silly me, thought we were so advanced as a society that we would never have one. Never assume anything! Take care and keep the posts coming!! I think the comment thing is taking a shine to you as this one came through loud and clear!

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  5. Today is day 15 of our semi quarantine.

    Hope this nightmare ends soon! Love the photos.

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    1. Well Veronica we are on day 15 today and have had it extended another three weeks. I will continue to think of it as 'safe at home' instead of 'stay at home'. . .hopefully, I can do that for another 21 days.

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  6. We are on our 10th day of self-isolation after arriving from Mexico. We can't even go to the grocery so friends do it for us and leave them at our doorstep. Good thing we brought a home because we drive from there.

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    1. Hopefully you are now through your quarantine and all is well with you both! Stay safe and well ~

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  7. It's very nice to meet you at
    __ Our World on Tuesday

    ...thank you for sharing.

    Stay healthy!

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    1. And nice to meet you as well! Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment. Stay well!

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  8. Sounds like you're handling this very strange time well. I was already confined to home by my compression fractures. Now I have lots of company. We've settled into the new "normal" in our little corner of Philly. My husband's medical friends and colleagues on the front lines are faring less well as the predicted wave of serious cases is arriving . Philadelphia.

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    1. Well, at least we can get around and go outside - afraid your compression fractures put you way high on the scale of 'shelter in place' Do take care and get well, stay well! Thanks for stopping by.

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  9. While we can't travel at the moment, it's great to read about what is going on in other places. Love the article. Thank you.

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    1. I agree - I am so enjoying other blogs right now. . .nice to know this is one journey we are all on together! Take care and stay safe.

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  10. Sending greetings from Portugal, Jackie and Joel. I've spent some time this morning catching up on your blog posts and am happy to read that you are well and coping with all the recent changes that have upended our lives. Like you, It find it hard to predict when life may return to "normal" and I have a feeling that, much like the before and after days of 9-11, corona virus and pandemics will define the future awaiting us. It's difficult to picture traveling anywhere right now (besides the grocery) and I'm sure that all of us who love to travel and have taken the ease of international flights for granted will be exercising more caution in the future. Stay well my virtual friends!

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    1. Anita, so good to hear from you! I have been thinking I should write and will do so soon. This should be a lesson for both of us - not to put off travel and those plans to 'get together sometime' When the world rights itself, lets get serious about going from virtual friends to real-life friends!! xx

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